Hoerr Nursery Blog

Sometimes we forget

Tue, 08 Jul 2008 11:23:36 +0100

Sometimes we get so caught up we forget the whole point...a garden is a celebration of the wonders and complexity of nature. After the effort of planting a garden, weeding and watering, etc., we sometimes forget to take the next step and simply enjoy our gardens and landscapes. Whether we have done the work ourselves, or hired professionals to do the work, it seems our lives get so complicated that the joy of sitting and breathing in the garden is often too far down our “to-do” list.

I have an opportunity to teach art and other subjects to college students and adults in the community, and one of my assignments frequently is to have the students go outside, stand for 10 minutes and observe. No talking. No cell phones (sometimes the toughest part for the college students). The only activities allowed are breathing, looking, seeing, observing. Back inside the classroom, they’ll either sketch or paint their observations or write an essay on them.

Although for the first three or four minutes the effort seems almost Herculean—they can’t believe how long 10 minutes lasts if they are simply standing there observing!—at the end of the assignment, the universal reaction is how refreshing and relaxing it is. Students tell me that is gives them a new tool for dealing with stress and anxiousness. They learn that it’s a free, can-do-anytime-anywhere process for reconnecting or getting grounded again with the beauty around us.

So, my gentle suggestion to each of us is to grab a little window of time and enjoy our garden spaces. After all, that’s what all our spring hustle and bustle in the garden has been about.

--Jane

Managing a Menace: Japanese Beetles

Thu, 17 Jul 2008 11:23:36 +0100

I had a call this morning from a customer wanting to know what all the beetles were on her roses. “There are about 10 per blossom. They are eating the flowers and have eaten a lot of leaves already. They weren’t there the last time I looked! What do I do?”

The Peoria area is becoming infested with Japanese Beetles, an insect that wasn’t around 3 or 4 years ago. It has been around other parts of the country for years. We knew it was coming, but nothing could be done to stop it. Now it is here to stay and is likely to increase in population over the next few years.

The beetle is a 3/8 to 1/2 inch, greenish-bronze metallic color with white spots on its hind end. Japanese Beetles will be here into early August but are peaking now. It starts as a white grub in the lawn; don't confuse it with the grub of the June Beetle. There are now two white grubs to deal with. Fortunately, they can both be controlled with Merit, and NOW is the time to apply it. So it will be effective when the eggs hatch and the grubs start feeding.

Controlling the Beetles

You are thinking, “But what do I do NOW to keep the Japanese Beetles from feeding on my plants?” You can always knock them off the plant into a bucket of soapy water. That’s the safest control and the one that raises the fewest concerns about effectiveness or ecological impact.

If it isn’t the best option for you, the sprays you can use are:

Sevin (Carbaryl)
Permethrin
Ortho Systemic Insect Killer (Orthene, or acephate)
Ortho Rose and Flower Insect Killer (bifenthrin insecticide)
Ortho Max Garden and Landscape Insectic Killer (esfenvalerate)
Bayer Rose and Flower Insect Killer (cyfuthrin and imidacloprid)

Multiple applications are needed. The beetles are great flyers and will come in from other places. They live for about 6 weeks. Insecticides with Merit or imidacloprid provide very good control as a soil drench. But this takes awhile to be taken up into the plant. It needs to be used before you see the beetles.

Japanese Beetle Traps

There are differences of opinions on the use of the Japanese Beetle traps; some scholars feel that they may end up drawing more beetles to your garden than they will actually catch. Although we have heard reports of horticulturists who used them last year and had good success with them.

These beetles feed on a lot of different plants (over 400!). They really like roses, Linden trees, and crabapple trees. While they won’t do long term damage to the plants, they do make it look bad. You can find a lot of information on the web about these pests. For the most reliable information, stick to the ones published by professionals, such as the universities, arboretums, or nurseries.

Best of luck in keeping them controlled.

--Dave

"Bee" Cautious with Chemicals

Fri, 08 Aug 2008 11:23:36 +0100

Timing is a critical factor when using Powdered Garden Sevin in our yards. Honey bees mistake the microscopic structure of the toxic powder form for pollen because it has almost the identical octagon shape that pollen does. The bees carry the product back to their hives, unfortunately, killing all inside.

It is imperative to use Powdered Garden Sevin only during the time when the plants are not in flower. Bees will not be visiting the plants unless they are flowering so it is fairly easy to help them to avoid this dangerous trap. One of our most common flowering trees that attract honeybees is the Linden tree which is being inundated by Japanese Beetles right now and people have been spaying the trees to prevent damage. This tree’s nickname is the “Bee Tree” and it provides some of the most outstanding honey available. It was flowering up until about two weeks ago unfortunately when the Japanese Beetles were also out. It is times like this to be very attentive to your choices of which pesticide to use if you choose to use one at all. Which would you rather get your honey from?

Of course getting the specific plant problem properly diagnosed is one of the first steps in successfully being able to treat the problem. Identify the problem first, and then look for products that are specifically made for that problem. Consider safer alternative products to use to lessen the severity of the effects of toxic chemicals.

Gone are the days of bombing your yard with anything you have on hand so every plant will look perfect. We need to realize the potential gravity of everything we do to our environment and learn to use chemicals in a way that doesn’t disturb its delicate balance.

One thing to keep in mind…every chemical that has ever been made by man has been found inside the honeycomb honeybees build, including DDT which has been banned in this country since 1972. We can help reduce that problem, starting with our yards, our brains and our consciousness.

--Marilyn

Sounds to Relax By…

Tue, 19 Aug 2008 11:23:36 +0100

Fountains are not just for looks anymore. Most customers actually ask me about the sound of the fountain more than the style. But don’t get me wrong, you want an esthetically pleasing fountain, one which works with your garden, outdoor living space and theme of your home.

A fountain can add a finishing touch to any garden or outdoor living space. There are so many styles and finishes to choose from such as the subtle, calming finishes to the “Hey! Look at me!” colors. Manufacturers have also become more creative in the designs of their fountains. For example, at nightfall brilliant LED lights add a whole new dynamic to large and small fountains alike. Even the new and innovative ways to channel the water through the fountain creates a sensation for both the eyes and ears to enjoy.

Owning a fountain is even easier than it used to be. General maintenance and winterizing are simplified, and now new extra gadgets are available like a remote control to turn your fountain off and on. No more looking for the outlet at 10:00 PM in case you don’t want your fountain running all night!

Now that your plants are blooming and things are lush, think about adding a fountain to your landscape or patio area for a “sounds to relax by” sanctuary!

--Kris

Emerald Ash Borer

Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:23:36 +0100

With all the news regarding the Emerald Ash Borer, we are getting many inquiries. Ranging from beetle identification to panic about what to do, we get calls and visits daily regarding this exotic pest. I’ll try to summarize the highlights about this insect.

The Emerald Ash Borer is considered exotic, because it is not native. Since it isn’t native, it doesn’t currently have any natural controls to keep it in check. The frightening aspect of the pest is that it can attack healthy trees. Most other borers attack only stressed trees. The good news is that it doesn’t appear to be a problem in the Peoria area yet.

The Illinois Department of Agriculture has taken aggressive steps to determine the actual status of this pest in our state. 5,000 traps were placed throughout Illinois to determine where the borer is active. The traps are being taken down now, but it will take a couple of months to analyze the large volume of traps.

The insect found in Bloomington appears to be isolated at the moment. They were not able to find an infestation in the area around where the beetle was located. They believe it was brought in from someone who transported the pest in firewood. However, there was an infestation found in Chenoa, IL that appears to have been there for awhile.

What does this mean to homeowners?

Don’t bring firewood in from other areas. The borer cannot travel far on its own, so hitching a ride on a load of firewood is the most effective way to transport exotic wood boring insects.
The adult EAB is a mall, slender, green beetle that can fit on a penny.
The larval stage feeds under the bark of the tree; you won’t see it unless you cut into the tree.
The borer is very slow moving unless it is aided by humans.
You don’t need to treat your ash yet. The University of Illinois insists there is no need to treat until the insect is verified within 15 miles of your home. Some companies are advertising that you must treat your ash trees now, we do not consider this prudent. First of all, as we mentioned, the EAB is not yet present in Peoria, so chemical treatment is premature.
Stressed and weakened trees will most likely be attacked first. Keep your tree healthy for the best control.
If the insect becomes numerous, it is then that healthy trees become infected.
Once confirmed in your area, the U of I believes you will have adequate time to inoculate your ash tree(s) against the Emerald Ash Borer.
Because it is slow to spread, you will most likely to have 2 years to get your tree treated if you choose to, before it might attack your tree.
Emerald Ash Borer is not known to attack any other species but ash.
When and if you decide on a chemical treatment for your ash trees, you can treat the tree(s) yourself with imidacloprid. It is easy for a homeowner to apply imidacloprid. It is available through several brands such as Fertilome and Bayer. This gives 90% control, which the U of I considers to be excellent control measures.
If you are applying the imidacloprid, it requires annual applications. It takes 2 years before older trees are fully inoculated.
There is some concern about the affect of imidacloprid on bees. While it is not substantiated, consider whether to use an alternative control when available. Since bees do not pollinate ash, imidacloprid for ash should not be a threat to bees.
A tree service can apply Tree-Age. This control can give up to 2 years of control. A homeowner cannot apply this.
Ash trees can be subject to many problems. If you have problems on your ash, and the EAB is not in your area, there is likely to be another cause.
EAB cannot be detected until it has been in the tree for a few years.
Early detection requires destructive measures to the tree. Such methods are reserved for areas where EAB is confirmed.
Per the Illinois Department of Agriculture, symptoms of EAB-infestation include decline, crown dye-back, D-shaped exit holes, excess woodpecker damage, basal sprouting, and larval galleries.
If, after consultation with a local expert, an EAB infestation is suspected, you should contact the Illinois Department of Agriculture at 1-800-641-3934 or the EAB USDA hotline at 1-800-322-4512.

Eventually, a homeowner may want to consider whether his or her tree is worth the annual cost to treat against EAB. This is a choice the homeowner must make. While we at Hoerr Nursery are no longer selling Ash trees, it is too early to give up on your tree. Perhaps treatment options will improve in the future. Time will tell what action you need to take in your area. For now, keep your eyes and ears open. When conditions or treatment options change significantly, we will keep you updated!

--Dave

Emerald Ash Borer Blog Update

Mon, 15 Sep 2008 11:23:36 +0100

This article is in response to the Emerald Ash Borer post on August 28

I attended the Chenoa Emerald Ash Borer Field Day on September 4, 2008. Experts on EAB from various State of Illinois Agencies provided the most up to date information available. Here are a couple of important points I wanted to add:

Contrary to advertisements by some tree services, Ash infected with EAB can be saved. To say, "Once an Ash tree is infested with EAB it is too late" is false information. EAB can be controlled in an ash that has been attacked by EAB, even up to 30% of the tree.
They reiterated that EAB moves only about 1/2 mile per year on its own. Therefore, the University of Illinois strongly believes that once the borer is found within 15 miles of your ash, you have a real good cushion of 7 years or more to get the tree treated.
Treatments against EAB must be done forever, like over a million years. So you will want to weigh the costs of treatment. Many municipalities are opting to remove ash in public areas rather than treat them, due to the cost.
Only Ash in the genus Fraxinus are susceptible. Mountainash, which is in the genus Sorbus, is resistant.
Damage most likely starts in the top of the tree. Early, D-shaped exit holes will not be noticeable from the ground. Other ash problems can also cause the top of the tree to thin out.
The Illinois Department of Agriculture recommends you contact a local expert to identify an insect that you suspect may be Emerald Ash Borer before calling them. You are welcome to bring your sample to Hoerr Nursery for ID.
The big purple traps are still hanging around, so it will be awhile before we hear the results for our area.
Most EAB have a one year life cycle. For larvae that hatched late, they will have a 2-year life cycle.

For more information about the Emerald Ash Borer, visit: www.IllinoisEAB.com

-Dave

Dead Nettle? Sneezeweed? And you paid good money for these?

Tue, 07 Oct 2008 11:23:36 +0100

… some of the funny names for some beautiful plants.

Working at a nursery and garden center, I have the opportunity to learn about some beautiful plants with elegant or stately names. A lovely flowering annual named angelonia is as delicate and lovely as you would expect. Even fragrant herbs such as Rosemary have a welcoming name.

But, I get a kick out of the plants with hideous, ugly or silly names.

Dead Nettle?

I giggle at a name like “dead nettle.” This is a perfectly beautiful perennial for shady areas; a fine plant with a terrible name. (Apparently the “dead” implies it does not sting. as does its cousin the “stinging nettle.” That hostile plant, if you even brush against it, imparts a sharp stinging sensation that persists in seemingly thousands of prickly points on your flesh.) The stinging nettle is considered a weed; not so with the cousin, the plain and lovely “dead nettle.”

Mother-in-law's Tongue?

Another funny name is mother-in-law’s tongue Sansevieria trifasciata. This is a common houseplant, and was apparently giving this nickname because its’ leaves are sharp with sometimes very sharp edges. As a fairly new mother-in-law myself… I won’t make any other comments in addition to: a rather wicked moniker for a popular, practical, utilitarian houseplant.

Harry Lauder's Walking Stick

And, my favorite funny name and one of my favorite plants, is “Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick.” This is the common name for: Corylus avellana 'Contorta.' This deciduous shrub is a mass of curly, twisted, contorted branches. It is so coiled, it can tie its branches into knots. Branches can look like ringlets and Slinkies. It has distinctive foliage and looks wonderful in the landscape in the spring, summer and fall, but is quite spectacular in the winter, when one can truly appreciate its “madness!” Apparently some people use the wild branches for a startlingly distinctive tall spire in an ikebana arrangement. Harry Lauder apparently used one of the mature branches for a walking stick! Whether you prune the branches for use in arrangements, or simply delight in their gnarled, twisted expressions, it is a wonderful addition to a Central Illinois garden. It’s my favorite—with a very funny name.

Harry Lauder was born in Scotland and The Special Collections of the Library at the University of Glasgow has a page dedicated to Sir Harry Lauder.

The following is my list of perfectly fine plants with some funny names:

Baby’s Breath – Gypsophilia
Bachelor Button - Centaurea
Balloon Flower – Platycodon
Bat Face Cuphoria
Beardstongue - Penstemon
Bear’s Britches - Acanthius
Blanket flower – Gaillardia
Bugbane – Cimifuga
Dead Nettle - Lamium
Devils Beggarticks
False Dragonhead – Physostegia
Foamflower – Tiarella
Hairy Beggarticks (bidens pilosa)
Harry Lauder Walking Stick
Hens and Chickens - Sempervivum
Jack-in-the-Pulpit
Jacob’s Ladder – Polemonium
Joe Pye Weed - Eupatorium
Lamb’s Ear – Stachys
Lung Wort - Pulmonaria
Mother-in-law’s Tongue
Naked Lady (licoris)
Painted Daisy – Tanacetum
Pigsqueak – Bergenia
Pin Cushion Flower – Scabiosa
Red Hot Poker - Kniphofia
Sea Holly – Eryngium
Sneezeweed - Helenium
Spiderwort – Tradescantia
Thrift - Armeria
Tick Seed – Coreopis
Toad Lily – Tricyrtis
Turtlehead - Chelone
Wine Cups - Callirhoe

Simple Stress Relievers

Thu, 12 Feb 2009 10:23:36 +0100

Ugh! That about summarizes this economy. What’s a person to do? Relieve stress by connecting to flowers and plants--the original “green” things! Here are some simple tips:

Buy some herbs

Even a couple of small pots can brighten your day. Rub your fingers through them anytime for a “pick me up.” Suggestions: basil, rosemary, any mint, thyme. Or your favorite. Use in cooking too!

Enjoy houseplants

Select a blooming plant or a houseplant for your desk or an area where you spend a lot of time. Even before its warm enough to plant outside, there are indoor plants to be found. Or create a terrarium.

Get some seeds

…and grow a couple pots of anything. Honestly, just watching a green sprout of anything poking its head out of the soil is fun. Don’t overdo it. Even a small little plastic microwave meal tray can hold a few seeds. Get one pack of seeds and a small bag of soil. (Use fresh soil; save the rest of the bag for your spring containers.) Follow the instructions on the seed pack. The main ideas are: plenty of light and moderation in watering.

Dry some flowers

Check out details on line, but basically put them between layers of paper towels and leave between the pages in a weighted down phone book for three days, or dry them in your microwave. (Basically between paper towels weighted down with a casserole dish.) Check every 30-seconds. May take 3 minutes or so. Error on under-drying. Dried flowers can be saved in a favorite book or affixed to a window, or glued to a blank card for a special note for a friend.

Edible flowers

Grow or buy some edible flowers (nasturtiums, pansies, or rose petals) and toss them on a salad. Or use for garnish for a dessert. You can make candied petals too. Use clean petals and simple syrup.

Take a class

Take a drawing or painting class from a friend, community college or community art center. Even if you “can’t draw a straight line,” a good teacher will open your eyes to really seeing the complexity and awesome beauty of the trees and plants in nature.

Take photos

Take photos of the your garden spaces and your trees. With the leaves and petals on -- or without them -- you get a new idea of the spaces you are working with. Bring your photos to Hoerr Nursery and the Garden Experts can help you plan out how to have a beautiful garden!

Visit Hoerr Nursery!

Stroll around Hoerr Nursery and enjoy all the beautiful plants. (New spring “cold tolerant” plants arriving mid-March; warm weather plants will follow.) The GardenHouse will have many fountains and a constantly arriving inventory of plants. Last likely freeze date in Central Illinois is around Mother’s day – so we are a long time off, but come in wander and absorb the beauty and find something Spring-ish for inside your home!

How To: Pruning Shrub Roses

Fri, 10 Apr 2009 11:23:36 +0100

Now is the perfect time to get your shrub roses in shape for spring! During their first two seasons, allow the plant’s basic framework to develop, pruning only the small spindly shoots. In the third year trim off the top 1/3 of the plant allowing all branches to reach a uniform shape.

The ideal time to prune is late winter before new growth starts in the spring. Trim off weak, diseased or winter-damaged wood that looks brown and dry on the outside. Remove any branch crossing or rubbing against another. Always leave the newest, healthiest cane. Trim shrub roses back to 12” to 18”.

Pruning tools include shears or a lopper. Always wear gloves and a long sleeved shirt when trimming roses. Use pruning shears designed for roses. A 2” blade works best. A long-handled lopper may be used for larger, more mature canes (branches).

Sprucing Up Your Fall Containers

Thu, 27 Aug 2009 11:23:36 +0100

Fall is just around the corner, and it’s the perfect time to update your summer planting containers! By reusing some of your existing plants and adding some new fall colors, you will have a fresh new container to last through autumn.

To start, cut back any existing plants that have become overgrown. This will prevent them from upstaging your new plantings. Next, use a knife to cut out any annuals that look unhealthy or weak. Prune other plants as needed to create a planting hole large enough for your new annuals.

Now it’s time to select your new plants! Look for annuals and perennials with great color, like flowering cabbage and kale, ornamental grass, mums, aster, and rudbeckia. Kale can endure light frosts and adds fullness as it continues to grow. Plant ornamental grasses towards the center or back of your container to provide movement and height.

Chrysanthemums (or “mums”) are iconic fall bloomers. They come in a wide variety of colors and will produce flowers for weeks. Purple Aster comes in several different heights, and can also be planted in the garden as a perennial. Rudbeckia, perhaps better known as Black-eyed Susan, has vibrant yellow flowers that create a great color impact.

Finally, add some pumpkins, gourds, or decorative corn to incorporate fall décor into your container. You can even add interest with artificial silks like colorful fall leaves or bittersweet stems. With a little imagination and some fresh foliage, you can breathe new life into your containers and embrace the colorful bounty of fall!

Are we going to have an early Fall?

Tue, 08 Sep 2009 11:23:36 +0100

Nobody can predict the weather with 100% certainty but given the unusual weather we have had this summer, we might just have an early fall. Our horticulturalists have been guessing when we might see the first frost of the year, and someone predicted it to be October 4th. She says it's based on the sounds of crickets and when we will have a full moon. We'll see...

What does that mean for the average gardener? Well, fall color is based two things: length of day and temperature. We could see the trees turn color earlier than usual, and even see some green leaves drop if we have a hard early frost. Here are some things to keep in mind as the cooler temperatures move in.

• Update your garden containers with fall plants – mums, grasses, pumpkins, etc. Mums are in full bloom and will last six weeks as will ornamental grasses and flowering kale.

• There are still some insects hanging around, but the annual fall grub population is sparse and will not cause much harm to lawns. You can still treat grub problems with Bonide Grub Beater Granules, available at Hoerr Nursery.

• Aerating your lawn is one of the best things you can do for it! Aerate in the fall to loosen soil, promote root development, and control thatch. If you’re interested in aeration, we can help! Contact Todd in Lawn Maintenance: (309) 691-4561

• The weather is perfect for starting some fall yard work. Remember to get those weeds out before they seed, and cut back fading foliage from peony, iris, daylilies, etc.

• PLANT!!! There’s no need to stop planting when summer ends! You can safely plant trees, shrubs, and perennials until the ground is frozen. Stop out today - we're here to help!

Enjoy these early days of fall!

Ella Maxwell

Fall Tree Care Tips

Fri, 11 Sep 2009 11:23:36 +0100

As trees are preparing for their fall color display, you can help them prepare for a long, chilly winter. Follow these fall tree care tips to keep your tree healthy and strong:

• Mulch! Surround your trees with a layer of organic composted mulch to hold in moisture and reduce temperature extremes. Your trees will thank you for it! Apply mulch in late fall after the ground has frozen.

• Get out the pruning saw and remove out dead branches now to prevent issues in the winter.

• Wrap young or newly planted tree trucks with tree-wrap paper to prevent sun-scalding over winter. Wrap in late fall and remove in early spring.

• Evergreens lose water from their foliage all winter, since they keep their needles year-round. Water them thoroughly before the ground freezes, and don’t forget the mulch!

• Diseased leaves can re-infect a tree even if they have fallen to the ground. Remove leaves from around trees as they fall. Healthy leaves make excellent compost and can be shredded and raked over existing garden beds. Diseased leaves, however, should be disposed of rather than composted or burned.

Enjoy the beauty of fall!

Ella

Time to Plant Spring Bulbs!

Thu, 17 Sep 2009 11:23:36 +0100

If you’re like me, you’re already dreaming about your early spring garden! Now is the perfect time to plant spring flowering bulbs like tulips and daffodils.

When to Plant
Spring flowering bulbs are only available in the fall, and you can plant them until the ground freezes. The roots will develop until the ground temperature drops to below 45 degrees, so planting now will give them a head-start.

What to Plant
Pick firm, unblemished bulbs. Bulbs that feel heavy for their size are the best choice. Keep in mind that bulbs are tasty treats for squirrels, chipmunks, deer and rabbits. If wildlife is an issue in your yard, consider planting only daffodils or hyacinths which are distasteful to animals.

How to Plant
The best method for planting is to dig and loosen the soil of the entire bed to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Mix in some bulb fertilizer with the soil, press the bulbs into the planting bed and cover with soil. Plant with the nose of the bulb upward and the root basal plate downward.

A good rule of thumb is to plant the bulb 2 to 3 times as deep as the diameter of the bulb. Daffodils, tulips and hyacinths are some of the larger bulbs and are typically planted 6 to 8 inches deep while the smaller bulbs like crocus or grape hyacinths are planted 4 inches deep.

Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil around the bulbs and provide the moisture needed to begin rooting.

Where to Plant
Bulbs can be planted neatly in clumps or rows, or in a random manner to give the appearance of naturalizing. Large bulbs are impressive in clumps, and small bulbs look best when they can be planted next to a pathway for close viewing.

*Note: To help you remember where you planted your bulbs, plant a single grape hyacinth bulb with each clump of bulbs. It produces foliage in the fall to mark where your bulbs have been planted!

Remember that for bulbs to perform well year after year they should be planted in full sun to light shade. Bulbs planted in full shade may bloom well the first year but seldom return. The last bit of advice is to allow the foliage to yellow and die in late spring so the bulb stays healthy and maturing.

Happy (fall) planting!

-Ella

Seven Tips to Jumpstart Your Lawn for 2010

Tue, 06 Oct 2009 11:23:36 +0100

October is here and it is not too late to work on your lawn! Fall is an excellent time to renovate the lawn and get a jump-start on a beautiful spring yard.

1. Aeration is one of the best things you can do for your lawn. Aerating in the fall will loosen soil, aid in root development, and control thatch. If you’re interested in aeration, contact the Lawn Maintenance unit at Hoerr Nursery (309) 691-4561.

2. Plant new seed to introduce a better quality grass to your lawn. Fall is a great time to lay down new seed, but be sure you get it planted by October 15th!

3. To start the new grass off right, apply a starter fertilizer like Fertilome's New Lawn Starter. To ensure establishment, you must make sure the seed comes in contact with the soil. Apply “topdressing” (a thin layer of soil) over your new seed to make sure it gets the necessary contact. Great quality grass seed for shady or sunny areas can be found at Hoerr Nursery.

4. Bring a soil sample into Hoerr Nursery for a pH test. If the test indicates a need for lime or sulfur to change the soil's pH, fall is a great time to apply. It will be worked into the soil by rain and the freezing and thawing of winter.

5. Get a jump on weed control by applying a liquid spray like Weed Be Gone or a "weed and feed" granular fertilizer like Fertilome's Weed Out.

6. You can continue mowing your lawn until the grass stops growing. Whenever your daily average minimum temperature (normal low) drops below the freezing point, the grass won't be growing appreciably and you can go ahead and do the final mow. You definitely want to get it done before the winter snows start falling!

7. Apply a Winterizing fertilizer to the yard any time between Halloween and Thanksgiving. It will provide a greener, thicker lawn in fall, quicker green up next spring, and increased root development to handle winter stress.

Love your lawn this fall and it will love you back in 2010!

Ella

Preparing Young Trees for Winter

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 11:23:36 +0100

Young trees need a little extra protection during the chilly winter months – the trunk is actually the most susceptible to problems. “Sunscald” is when the trunk is actually burned by the sun and can put the tree in danger of developing frost cracks which can harm the tree. No worries! Applying tree wrap is a quick, easy and inexpensive method to protect your tree investment this winter.

Installing Tree Wrap
• First, pick up a tree wrap product at the Garden Center. Begin by wrapping the base of the trunk and working your way upward, overlapping the wrap as you go. This allows the wrap to shed water away from the trunk and prevent water from running down the inside of the tree wrap.

• Continue to wrap tightly until you reach the first horizontal branch. Cut the wrap and secure with twine at the top. Avoid using nylon twine or wire.

• When spring arrives and warm temperatures return, carefully remove the tree wrap. Don't forget! Leaving it on during the warmer months can provide a habitat for harmful insects.

Protection from Animals
Trees are also susceptible to harm from rodents, rabbits, and deer throughout the winter. To prevent problems from small animals, be sure to wrap young trees tightly. Deer love to rub their antlers on the trunks of small trees, so create a barrier of chicken wire around the trunk, and secure it to T-posts in the ground at a height of 3 to 4 feet.

Liquid Fence
For a little extra help, apply a chemical repellant called Liquid Fence to your young trees. This liquid spray can be applied all winter when the temperatures are above freezing, and it will guard the tree against animals.

Take a little extra care to tuck your young trees in for the winter, and they will thank you for it in the spring!

Ella

We’re Expanding our Greenhouse!

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 10:23:36 +0100

Soon the rain won’t be able to stop you from enjoying a great Hoerr Nursery shopping experience! We just broke ground on a new building that will connect the Garden Center (gift shop) to the GardenHouse and expand our Container Cove area. Work began just last week, and the building will be ready to use by Spring! We’ll keep you updated on the building progress through our blog and on Facebook, so stop by often to see the latest pictures!

Holiday Shoppers: Our Garden Center and GardenHouse will still be open during construction for holiday shopping - just watch your step!

Greenhouse Update – Taking Shape

Tue, 22 Dec 2009 10:23:36 +0100

Construction Update: Our new greenhouse connecting the Garden Center and GardenHouse is starting to take shape! Thanks to the weather conditions holding out for us in late November/early December, construction crews were able to pour the all the footings and install the rafters for the structure (with a little help from some heavy equipment!) Take a peek at our progress below and for even more photos visit our facebook page and view the “Greenhouse Construction” photo album. And while you’re there, be sure to “Become a fan” of Hoerr Nursery! Stay tuned for more updates.

Save Your Plants from Heavy Snow

Mon, 22 Feb 2010 10:23:36 +0100

Do your plants look like these arborvitae? The wet snow can have a severe impact on the shape of your plants - here's what you can do to help:
1. VERY carefully wipe off as much snow as possible, then shake the branches carefully. (If the temperature is in single digits, or below zero - wait until it warms up)

2. It may be necessary to tie the plants together to help support each other. Use a soft tie - a soft material or some old pantyhose will do the trick - and tie the inside of the trunks together.

3. During the warmer months, remove the tie and see if they are strong enough to hold up on their own. If not, retie them. Gradually begin loosening the ties and replace as needed so the ties do not choke the trunks.

Introducing - Sara's Garden!

Thu, 18 Mar 2010 16:12:35 +0100

I am embarking on an edible journey. All winter long, I have had thoughts of starting my own vegetable garden. Even though it’s only March and everything still seems wintery, there is plenty I can do to start planning my patch. Over the next couple months I’ll fill you in on the progress of my garden.

Why start my own garden? Well, I talk to a LOT of gardeners that have fond memories of their parents’ or grandparents’ vegetable gardens: of Grandpa scattering lettuce seeds on the last fallen snow, of shelling peas in the afternoon shade. Memories of picking fresh tomatoes and zucchini right off the vine, or making pies, jams, soups and salsas from their fresh picked harvest. Gardening is good for the soul, AND good for the earth.

Not long ago, most families grew vegetable gardens to create nutritious and healthy meals. Now we buy most of our produce from the supermarket. I was shocked to find out that store-bought fruits and veggies may have traveled thousands of miles from farm to plate, even if they were grown locally! By growing my own food I can save money, have fresher, more flavorful foods and be a little kinder to the environment.

So join me as I start my garden! My March “to-do” list includes: selecting seeds, preparing garden beds, and starting a garden journal. What would you like to hear about first? Leave a comment on this post and let me know!

Let's Get Planting!

Wed, 31 Mar 2010 15:32:31 +0100

March was a busy month in my garden! I started a lot of cool weather veggies indoors and I’ve already planted some transplants in my garden beds. I built several 4 x 8 foot raised beds in my backyard that will hold all my herbs and veggies. To give them a great start, I picked up some Better Earth compost from Hoerr Nursery and added it to the soil in my raised beds.

My chicken Reba loves to help with garden chores!

So far I have planted hardy (perennial) herbs: chives, garden sage, lavender, German chamomile and two types of thyme (creeping and English), red, white and yellow onion sets, garlic and shallots, and strawberries. I also sowed several types of lettuce seed.

A lot of people wonder which plants are better to start from seed and which are more easily grown from already started plants. The truth is – it’s up to you! If you have the time and patience to nurture lots of little seeds, go for it! But there are some plants that will probably be easier to grow if you purchase them as already started plants – and some that are happier if you sow them outside and don’t try to move them. I made a little guide below to help explain:

So tell me, what are you planting in your herb and veggie gardens?

Ella's Advice: Five Favorite Flowering Trees

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 16:49:36 +0100

Birds are singing, bees are buzzing and flowering trees are beginning to BLOOM! Spring has finally arrived, and flowering trees are one of the greatest delights of the season! I’ve compiled a list of my favorite blooming trees based on their special features. Perhaps you’ll find the perfect one to add to your spring landscape!

First to Bloom: Apricot trees display delicate flowers and offer the promise of tasty fruit. Check out the Chinese Apricot tree.

Great for Small Spaces: Crabapple trees are small in size, but bloom so heavily they often hide entire branches of the tree. My personal favorite is ‘Tina’ Crabapple.

Classic Spring Tree: Redbud trees offer spring flowers in shades of pink and purple, and leaves that turn a pretty bronze/gold color in the fall. For a twist on the classic redbud, check out ‘Lavender Twist’ Redbud which has a contorted stem, arching branches and develops an umbrella-shaped crown with prolific flowers.

New this Year: ‘Butterflies’ Magnolia has unique yellow blooms instead of the traditional pink and grows to be a nice sized ornamental tree.

Unique: ‘Ivory Silk’ Lilac Tree combines the huge fragrant flowers of a lilac bush with the stature of a flowering tree. It bears clusters of creamy-white flowers around Memorial Day.

A traditional Pink Saucer Magnolia

While these are some of my favorites, there are many more flowering trees to choose from. To see our full selection of flowering trees, visit Plant-o-Pedia.

Happy Spring!

Ella

Sara's Garden: Journaling and My First Recipe!

Fri, 23 Apr 2010 09:12:55 +0100

Have you ever heard the saying “In order to live off a garden, you practically have to live in it”? Well I’ve been living in my garden lately, and it’s really starting to pay off!

I keep track of all my garden chores in a journal so I can look back and remember what I did and how things turned out. Have any of you started a garden journal? Here’s a preview of my April journal entries:

April 2

Planted bare-root asparagus ‘Purple Passion’ and ‘Jersey Giant’ along the SW side of my garage. Planted remaining strawberries in my raised patch. Planted one row each of carrot ‘Science Fiction’ and lettuce ‘Black Seeded Simpson’. Planted two rows of peas ‘Sugar Daddy’ and ‘Progress #9’ (all specific varieties listed were purchased and are available at Hoerr Nursery)
Made bamboo teepees about 4 feet tall along the middle of one of my beds to support my climbing peas.

April 3

It rained last night and FILLED my 44-gallon rainbarrel! I’ll use the recycled water in my garden when we’re low on rain.
Installed motion activated flood lights as a deer deterrent. I’ve been covering my babies with a thick layer of straw, old milk crates and flower pots at night to protect them from deer but as the plants get bigger and more established, I will need a more permanent solution.

April 12

Started seeds indoors of ‘Sweetie’ cherry and ‘Brandywine Mix’ tomatoes, green bell pepper and red Italian pepper.
My spinach, lettuce, pea, radish and carrot seedlings are starting to get their new sets of leaves. And my onions are at least 8 inches tall!

April 15

Started some sweet basil seeds in peat pots in the greenhouse. When the danger of frost is gone, I’ll plant them out with my tomatoes in my “salsa garden” at Hoerr Nursery.

April Garden Recipe

I ate my first homegrown salad the other day! There’s something magical about eating “living” food that was picked from your garden moments before. I had three types of lettuce mixed with chopped spring green onion, radish sprouts, chives and thyme for flavor and garnish. I sprinkled it with sesame seeds, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and lemon juice….yum!

2010 Veggie Varieties

Mon, 26 Apr 2010 15:01:05 +0100

Hoerr Nursery is proud to carry fresh vegetable plants from Burpee Home Gardens. These varieties are easy to grow and produce an abundant harvest. Here is a preview of some of the Burpee Home Gardens plants we’ll be carrying in 2010:

Tomatoes

'Big Mama' 'Brandy Boy' 'Fourth of July'

‘Big Mama’ - Plum-shaped and enormous, Big Mama Hybrid tomatoes grow up to 5 inches long and 3 inches across. In the kitchen, this variety is easy to peel and core. One of the best paste tomatoes and excellent in sauces.

‘Brandy Boy’ - A hybrid of the classic Brandywine, Brandy Boy has the benefits of an heirloom with incredible taste, smooth and thin skin. Producing loads of large pink fruits, this tomato is best eaten fresh in salads.

‘Fourth of July’ - Producing small, luscious fruits, Fourth of July is one of the earliest producing varieties you can grow. And although this plant is early, you can continue to harvest your plant until late summer or early fall.

'Fresh Salsa' 'Napa Grape' 'Steak Sandwich'

‘Fresh Salsa’ - Salsa lovers, your tomato is here! You can chop this tomato into tiny cubes that remain perfectly firm and solid in salsa recipes. Plum-shaped and “dripless,” Fresh Salsa is all meat - perfect for recipes like bruschetta and light sauces.

‘Napa Grape’ - Independent taste tests confirm that this variety maintains a higher sugar content than any other grape tomato and the sweetness doesn't fade in late summer. Shiny red, one inch elongated globes are produced in abundance on vigorous vines.

‘Steak Sandwich’ - Vigorous but compact, Steak Sandwich tomatoes load up with dozens of fruits at a time. Harvest the large fruits summer through fall and you’ll love them on sandwiches and burgers or in salads.

'Super Tasty' 'Sweet Seedless'

‘Super Tasty’ – Super Tasty has a rich, tangy flavor and solid texture with deep red color inside and out. Great in large patio pots and small-space gardens, this variety requires minimal staking for support.

‘Sweet Seedless’ - This first-ever seedless tomato is rich and flavorful because there are no seeds to store the sugars for later use, so all the sweetness is immediately available for you to enjoy in every rich slice.

Peppers

'Flavorburst' 'Great Stuff' 'Jalapeño Gigante'

‘Flavorburst’ - These sweet peppers are easy to grow, producing a bountiful harvest of crisp, juicy golden peppers all summer long. Grow in a sunny spot with plenty of water. A Burpee taste test winner.

‘Great Stuff’ - This jumbo, 7-inch long, 5-inch wide pepper ripens from green to dark red. Excellent in any garden, Great Stuff is resistant to pests. Perfect for slicing, stuffing or baking.

‘Jalapeño Gigante’ - The largest jalapeño, these peppers measure as much as 5 inches long! Easy to grow in any sunny garden or large patio pot, these peppers can be harvested throughout the summer when they’re green or red. Perfect for salsa or stuffing as poppers.

Cucumber

'Bush Champion' 'Sweet Burpless'

‘Bush Champion’ - Bush types take one-third the space, so they're great for containers and raised beds. Bush Champion produces huge, 11-inch cukes with amazing flavor and wide adaptability.

‘Sweet Burpless’ - An exceptional burpless slicing cuke with a sweet flavor, Sweet Burpless produces green, 10 to 12-inch, cylindrical, smooth fruits on vigorous plants.

'Ambrosia' Melon 'Burpee Golden' Summer Squash

Melon ‘Ambrosia’ - Ambrosia melon is an exotic melon hybrid that might be confused with a cantaloupe, but it’s quite different. Its flesh is very sweet, tender and pale orange in color with a flavor described as “a combination of all melons plus flowers.”

Summer Squash ‘Burpee Golden’ - These bright, glossy golden fruits have a distinct zucchini flavor. Medium-long fruit, these zucchinis have a bright golden color and are ready for harvest in less than two months. Zucchini is versatile. You can steam it, boil it, stuff it or bake it.

Ella's Advice: Caring for your Hanging Baskets

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 09:06:50 +0100

Whether they greet your guests at the front door or brighten up your porch or patio, every home has room for a lush, beautiful hanging basket. Here are my tips for keeping your hanging baskets healthy and blooming all summer long:

First, determine the light conditions the basket will receive in your selected location. Some plants thrive in full sun and some require lots of shade. Check with a horticulturist at Hoerr Nursery for advice on selecting appropriate plants for your basket.

Second, purchase healthy plants; choose ones with multiple stems for prolific growth. Trailing plants are ideal for hanging baskets. Some plants to consider include ivy, geranium, verbena, sweet potato vine, million bells, petunias, browallia, and many others. Click here to view our selection of annuals in Plant-o-Pedia.

Petunia Verbena Sweet Potato Vine

Third, assemble your basket! Planting hanging baskets is as easy as any potted plant, but there are a few tips to follow to keep your flowers growing:

A key element to any successful gardening project is quality soil! Since hanging baskets can dry out very quickly, choose a moisture-control potting soil such as Miracle-Gro Moisture Control.
Make sure your basket is at least 14 inches in diameter – this will ensure your plants will have adequate soil and moisture. If your basket dries out completely, submerge it in water and let it absorb as much as it can handle - this will boost its chances of recovery.
Keep your plants fertilized with a slow release fertilizer like Osmocote. This fertilizer is activated and released at every watering.
By mid July, cut back the plants to encourage growth and add more slow release fertilizer to keep your baskets looking great! Be sure to rotate the basket so that all sides receive adequate light.

Remember - if you don’t have time to assemble your own, you can come in and view our huge selection of hanging baskets, or have one of our associates create a custom basket for you!

Happy Spring!

Ella

Sara's Garden: 3 Reasons to Interplant Flowers with Your Veggies

Wed, 19 May 2010 11:38:51 +0100

Hello Gardeners! How are your veggies doing? Spring is in full swing and my garden has been growing like crazy! I just harvested tons of lettuce and beets from my raised beds, and I’m making room for my next round of crops. This is a great time to look at my garden and figure out what I want to do next.

I just wanted to share a helpful tip for new gardeners – interplanting flowers with your veggies! Has anyone tried this in their garden? I planted up a little wagon at Hoerr Nursery that has lettuce, onions and flowers!

Are you convinced yet? Here are some great reasons to plant flowers among your veggies and herbs:

1 - Attract Pollinators - Veggies don’t always have the showiest flowers. Make sure the bees can find your vegetable plants by interplanting flowers that have lots of nectar or petals in shades of blue, yellow or white.

2 - Attract Beneficial Insects – Certain insects are good to have in your garden, like ladybugs, lacewings, parasitic wasps and ground beetles. They help control insect pests like aphids, caterpillars and leafhoppers.

3 – Confuse Garden Pests – When you interplant a variety of plants together, you mask the smell and shapes of plants that pests use to locate their favorite foods. The greater variety of herbs and flowers you have growing in your veggie garden, the fewer insect problems you'll have. Some plants even repel garden pests!

Here are some diagrams I made that can help you remember which plants are great for your veggie garden:

Sara's Garden: Planting My Salsa Garden!

Thu, 27 May 2010 16:11:34 +0100

Well it feels like summer has arrived early this year! All this hot weather has gotten me inspired to plant my salsa garden! Yesterday I picked out all my veggies and herbs and planted them in my little garden patch at Hoerr Nursery.

I used a combination of a raised garden bed and two trough containers to fit everything. They already had great quality topsoil, but I mixed in some Better Earth compost to make sure I get the most production out of my plants!

In one trough I planted organic cilantro from Hoerr Nursery and basil that I grew from seed. I can’t wait to chop these up and throw them in my salsa for some fresh flavor!

My other trough is filled with the best little cherry tomato plants! This variety is called ‘Red Robin’ and it’s made to stay small and bushy – perfect for container planting!

In the raised bed I planted these varieties:

Tomatoes

‘Black Cherry’
‘Brandywine’ Heirloom
‘Fresh Salsa Hybrid’
‘Green Zebra’ Heirloom
‘Lemon Boy’
‘Red Robin’
‘Yellow Pear’

Peppers

‘Chocolate’
‘Golden Bell’
‘Lady Bell’
‘Red Beauty’ Sweet Bell
‘Salsarific’ Habanero
‘Salsarific’ Jalapeno
‘Salsarific’ Poblano
‘Valencia Orange’

I also planted gazanias and marigolds to add some color and attract beneficial insects!

I’m so excited to finally have this bed planted up! Be sure to check out the progress next time you’re at Hoerr Nursery!

So…anyone have a favorite salsa recipe to share? I’ve got lots of ingredients growing!

Sara's Garden: Summer Garden Recipes

Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:17:32 +0100

The month of June has given me lots of rain… and strawberries! What fun it has been to find those little rubies sparkling in the morning sun! I did have to put bird netting over my patch because my chicken, Reba, enjoys them as much as I do. They are so good fresh picked right off the plant, but below is a really easy recipe for jam, so you can enjoy your berries year-round:

Ingredients
2 cups sugar
1 large lemon, zested and juiced
1 ½ pints fresh strawberries, hulled and halved

Directions
Combine the sugar, lemon zest, and lemon juice in a small saucepan and cook over very low heat for 10 minutes, until the sugar is dissolved. Add the strawberries and continue to cook over very low heat for 20 minutes, until the strawberries release some of their juices and the mixture boils slowly. Cook until a small amount of the juice gels on a very cold plate. (I keep one in the freezer.) Pour carefully into 2 pint canning jars and either seal or keep refrigerated. Use immediately, or follow proper canning guidelines.

My strawberries covered in protective bird netting

In the first two weeks of June, I harvested all of my remaining carrots, peas and lettuces. Most of the lettuce had started to bolt (flower) due to the heat and began to taste a little bitter. In its place, I have planted lots of cucumbers, zucchini and yellow summer squash. These plants are great because you can sow seeds directly in the ground (or containers) and they are very prolific. I hope to have lots for salads, stir-fries and to share with family and friends. But beware… these plants are large and take up lots of space in the garden! I am going to train some of my cucumbers vertically up a trellis to save valuable garden space. I also planted a few zucchini in 15-gallon containers as an experiment.

My carrots are all harvested and ready to eat!

I set out all of my tomatoes and peppers that I started from seed. Here’s a great little tip for planting tomatoes: strip all the branches and leaves off the bottom two-thirds of your plants. Dig a deep hole and bury a good portion of the main stem when you plant. Alternatively, dig a shallow trench, and lay the vine along it and cover with at least 4 inches of soil. Roots will grow from the buried portion of the stem and create a sturdier, more vigorous plant. Don’t forget to provide some sort of support, such as cages, stakes or a fence to tie to. Once your tomato plants set fruit, they will need help supporting it. Some varieties of peppers with heavy fruit, such as bells, will benefit from a little support as well.

Little green tomatoes on the vine!

I’ve planted flowering annuals along with my asparagus. I tried to choose flowers that would be attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds such as Salvia and Egyptian Starflower. I hope these will also attract beneficial insects such as pollinators and pest predators.

I also planted four 8-foot rows of beans. I chose bush type varieties, but you can also plant runner beans, which will vine and climb up a pole or trellis (great for the urban gardener). Runner or pole beans can also have very showy flowers and can be used ornamentally. The beans I planted are harvested in 50 days for green beans and 100 days for shell beans to use in soups and for drying. And it only took five days for my seedlings to pop their heads above the soil!

Bean sprouts

June is weed season! I have been pulling like crazy to keep them under control and prevent them from flowering and consequently going to seed. If you allow your weeds to bloom, you will definitely see them in your garden next year. Tip: compost your weeds separately and don’t use the compost in the veggie garden, as you may spread weeds if you do.

I have planted lots of sweet basil in my herb patch and have made several batches of pesto. I love garden-fresh pesto on pasta, potatoes, sandwiches or roasted veggies. You can smear it on just about anything… the possibilities are endless. The Japanese beetles are out and I have been hand picking them from my basil in the evenings to keep the damage to a minimum. Below is a great simple recipe for basil pesto. Feel free to share your June gardening adventures and family recipes, if they’re not secret :)

Fresh Basil Pesto Recipe

Ingredients
2 cups fresh basil leaves, packed
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan-Reggiano or Romano cheese
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/3 cup pine nuts or walnuts
3 medium sized garlic cloves, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Special equipment needed: A food processor

Directions
Combine the basil in with the pine nuts, pulse a few times in a food processor. (If you are using walnuts instead of pine nuts and they are not already chopped, pulse them a few times first, before adding the basil.) Add the garlic, pulse a few times more. Slowly add the olive oil in a constant stream while the food processor is on. Stop to scrape down the sides of the food processor with a rubber spatula. Add the grated cheese and pulse again until blended. Add a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
Makes 1 cup.

Basil and Rosemary

Lots of peppers!

Harvesting my carrots, peas and strawberries

Ella's Advice: Top Five Gardening Mistakes

Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:28:45 +0100

5. Too Much Mulch!
Mulching is great for plants – it reduces water loss from the soil, minimizes weed competition, and improves soil structure. Unfortunately, many landscapes fall victim to a plague of overmulching, leading to excess moisture and root rot. Avoid creating a “mulch volcano” around the base of your shrubs and trees. Piling mulch around the trunks can create a habitat for rodents that chew the bark. Make sure your mulch is no more than 2 to 4 inches deep.

4. Ignoring the Roots
If your new plant or shrub has been growing in a container, you’ll need to pay a little attention to the roots before you plant. Using your hands or a trowel, tease apart and loosen the root ball. Roots often become pot-bound and circling in containers and need encouragement to grow out and down when transplanted. If you skip this step, the plant’s roots may never spread into the surrounding soil.

3. Forgetting About Soil
In a perfect world every garden would have an abundance of nutrient-rich soil. Even seasoned gardeners can forget to add organic matter to their soil when planting. Take a little time to enrich your soil with compost at planting, and it will pay dividends for the entire life of the plant!

2. Full Sun, Full Shade, Does it Even Matter?
Yes it matters! Plants appreciate an environment that has been carefully selected for their needs. Check the label on your plants for light requirements before you buy them! At Hoerr Nursery you can find all sun-loving perennials out in the open, and all shade-loving plants under a protective awning. Even if your plant survives in an inappropriate environment, it will never perform as well as it would under the proper conditions.

1. Planting Too Close Together
We’ve all seen landscapes that start out looking full, only to become overgrown and out of control in a couple of years. Before you place your plants, consider how big they will be at maturity. As a rule of thumb, shrubs should be planted 3 to 4 feet apart, and 2.5 to 3 feet away from the wall of a house or building. Spacing your plants appropriately will help maintain a tidy landscape and reduce your time spent pruning.

Ella's Advice: Japanese Beetle Tips

Wed, 07 Jul 2010 15:41:12 +0100

Quick Facts about Japanese Beetles:

They feed for 6 to 8 weeks from late June through August.
They eat between the veins of a leaf, leaving it dried and lacey.
They can stress plant material but rarely inflict enough damage to kill it.

Japanese Beetles do have favorite plants, but they feed on a large variety of trees, shrubs, and flowers - especially on yellow colored rose flowers or ripening fruits like raspberries and grapes.

Favorite plants:

Linden, birch, cherry and plum trees
Plants in the rose family
Grapes and red raspberries
Virginia creeper
Porcelain berry vine
Rose of Sharon and other mallow
Onethera and many others

Prevention
One way to control Japanese Beetles is to replace favored plants with those they tend to avoid, including boxwood, hydrangea, lilac, euonymus, holly and forsythia. Another prevention strategy is to physically cover plants with a floating row cover. This is a lightweight spun polyester fabric that lets light and moisture through but excludes the beetles from feeding. This is especially helpful for vegetables or raspberries where sprays may be undesirable.

Control
If Japanese Beetles are already present in your landscape you have a few options for controlling the damage they inflict.

Physical Removal
The least invasive method of control is to physically remove the insects from your plants. Japanese Beetles are fairly clumsy and will fall off a branch when it is shaken. Hold a bucket of soapy water under the branch while you shake it to collect the beetles. Use liquid dish soap, as plain water doesn't quite do the trick - the beetles can survive and swim around in it for days.

Japanese Beetle Traps
You can also hang traps that lure beetles using a pheromone scent. These traps have replaceable collection bags or containers to dispose of trapped beetles. You should only use the traps if there is a heavy infestation. Be sure not to place them near the desirable plants - hang them in a nearby area to draw them away.

Chemical Control
Another method of control is with the use of a chemical product. This option may be necessary for large infestations that cause serious plant damage. All general use insecticides will control beetles, and most require direct contact to kill the beetle. Be sure to follow label instructions when spraying.

Spray insecticides later in the day when adult beetles are less likely to fly off and bees may not be working. Apply carbaryl sold as “Sevin” or permethrin or other pyrethroid sprays. You may also apply imidacloprid as a drench in early spring to prevent damage to a favored tree.

For more advice on dealing with Japanese Beetles, call or stop by the Garden Center to speak with one of our horticulturists.

Click here to see our Growing Guide on Japanese Beetles.

Ella Maxwell

Ps. Be sure to watch my talk on Japanese Beetles on the Mid-day Gardener tomorrow! Tune to the WEEK noon news cast and watch for the program around 12:20pm after Mr. Food.

Ella's Advice: 10 Best Value Plants

Tue, 13 Jul 2010 14:28:27 +0100

When hot summer weather arrives, it’s valuable to have plants that can go a little while without being watered. Fortunately, there are several drought-tolerant plants that can save you money on watering and still look beautiful throughout the summer.

We’ve compiled a list of our most valuable plants that are guaranteed to come back year after year, save you money on watering (all are drought-tolerant), and eventually fill up a lot of space.

Next time you’re thinking about adding to your garden or landscape, try incorporating some of these plants to stretch your dollar a little further:

Sedum One of the most reliable growers, sedum provides star-shaped blooms well into fall and attracts butterflies. Fall blooming varieties also offer fuel for monarchs and other late fliers on their journey south. Why we love it: Sedum is one of the first perennials to emerge in the spring, offering interesting foliage until it erupts with blooms from late summer through the end of fall.
Yarrow (Achillea) Yarrow grows in almost any conditions, providing vibrant colored blooms in the garden until frost. Some of our favorite varieties are Moonshine (light-yellow), Apricot Delight (pink), and Strawberry Seduction (red). Why we love it: Yarrow is very tolerant of heat and humidity, has a long bloom season and even grows well in a pot.
Coreopsis Also known as Tickseed, this plant produces sunny yellow flowers and thrives in dry conditions. Interesting varieties include Tequila Sunrise (variegated leaves), Crème Brulee (light yellow), and Jethro Tull (fluted petals). Why we love it: Native to the Southwest United States and Mexico, this perennial can take the heat and still perform beautifully.
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia) This cheerful perennial offers large, daisy-like blooms from early summer through fall. Considered a wildflower by some, the bright red and yellow blooms look great in a tidy border or naturalized landscape. Why we love it: This plant is very tough and cheerful! The bright colors will add a touch of whimsy and wilderness to any area of your garden.
Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) Just when we need a breath of fresh air in the late summer heat, butterfly bushes happily burst into bloom. At a time when many other plants are already spent, buddleias are just beginning their show. Their passive coloring and texture makes a wonderful backdrop for perennials, and you'll love the butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds that flock to their honey-scented blossoms. Why we love it: Deer resistant, fragrant, drought-tolerant, attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds and even great in a cut flower arrangement – you can’t ask much more in a perennial!
Coneflower (Echinacea) This native plant has become a standard for the summer perennial garden. Coneflowers are accustomed to harsh prairie conditions, and they are great at tolerating heat, drought, and wind. They’re even a source of seed for birds long after they stop blooming. Some of our favorites are Kim’s Knee High (dwarf), Tomato Soup (red petals), Pink Double Delight (double pink petals), Mac ‘n’ Cheese (yellow petals) and more! Why we love it: Available in a wide variety of colors, sizes, and shapes, coneflowers are some of the best perennial flowers for late summer and early fall.
Agastache This drought-tolerant perennial is often forgotten, but it’s the perfect addition to any wildlife habitat, with flowers that attract butterflies, hummingbirds and bees all summer long. Agastache boasts a compact, upright growing habit, fuzzy licorice-scented leaves and lovely, nectar-rich blue-lavender flower spikes Why we love it: The tall blooms provide a great backdrop for other perennials and annuals in the landscape.
Knock Out Rose There’s a reason we call them Knock Out Roses! This family of roses has stunning flower power with a generous bloom cycle (about every 5-6 weeks) that will continue until the first hard frost. These low maintenance roses are easy to grow and extremely disease resistant. Why we love it: Knock Out Roses can fit into any landscape. Plant them individually among shrubs, annuals and perennials, or in clusters for a dramatic visual impact.
Hens & Chicks (Sempervivum) We love this tough plant for its rosette-shaped clusters of leaves. It can grow in shallow or rocky terrain in the garden, and is also very attractive in containers. The plants can be divided easily at any time by pulling up some of the "chicks" and replanting them elsewhere Why we love it: Sempervivum is very forgiving. It can go for days without water, and then perk right back up once you remember.
Ornamental Grasses These perennials are the perfect garden backdrop, adding texture, color and fullness to any space. Look for switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) for beautiful fall color and feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) for a stately sweep up to 5 feet tall. Why we love it: Ornamental grass offers year-round interest and adds a touch of drama and looks perfectly at home in the Midwest landscape.

Ella's Advice: Top Tips for Mosquito Control

Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:31:51 +0100

Few things can put a damper on your outdoor summer activities like mosquitoes! These pesky critters roam our landscapes from May to September, just looking for their next meal!

Follow these simple steps to put mosquitoes in their place and start enjoying your landscape again!

Standing Water – Dump it or Treat it!
Mosquito larvae can develop in even the tiniest pools of standing water. Make sure you turn over garbage can lids and unblock your rain gutters to keep the breeding grounds to a minimum.

For water features such as ponds, rainbarrels and birdbaths, drop in some Mosquito Dunks. The dunks are round discs that contain micro-organisms to eradicate the larvae. Each dunk can treat up to 100 square feet of water for a month, and they can be broken into pieces to treat smaller areas.

Bite Back!
To deal with major mosquito problems, apply an insecticide like Bonide Mosquito Beater Ready-to-Spray. The spray container can be attached to a garden hose to treat the entire yard. This water-based product contains Permethrin and will help control other insects as well.

No More Party Crashers!
The grill is hot and the pool is ready – now make sure your party guests are comfortable and bite-free all evening! Apply Bonide Mosquito Beater Ready-to-Use Preventative to your recreation areas to reduce the presence of mosquitoes and other flies. The shaker-top container makes it easy to distribute the granules in your desired area. Best of all – mosquitoes are driven away in about an hour, and won’t come back for 24 hours!

All of these mosquito-treating products can be found in the Plant Pharmacy at Hoerr Nursery. And for a limited time, Bonide Mosquito Beater products are half off!

Enjoy your summer and live at peace with your landscape!

Ella

Sara's Garden: Watering in the Heat of Summer

Tue, 10 Aug 2010 15:36:02 +0100

As August arrives, we begin to wind into the hottest and driest days of the summer. Now is the time to consider different ways to supplement rainwater and keep your veggies growing!

You can water by hand if you have a few containers or a small plot, or you can hook your hose up to a good old-fashioned sprinkler for larger areas. Use the water saved in your rain barrel to supplement if you have one.

For my garden, I have installed drip hoses in the beds so that I don’t have to water everything by hand. This is a great time saving method, because I can just attach my garden hose to the drip hose in the beds, turn on the water and leave it for a while until the soil has had a good soaking. In the meantime, I can pull weeds, scout for pests, or snack on the tomatoes ripening on the vine!

Keep an eye open for my next post on scouting for and managing garden pests!

Not All Mums are Created Equal

Thu, 23 Sep 2010 12:33:10 +0100

Mums add the perfect splash of color to any fall landscape, either planted in your garden beds or plopped right into a container. Mums are available in many different sizes and a beautiful variety of colors, but one thing is certain: not all mums are created equal.

Natural vs Forced

As the saying goes, “Fight against Mother Nature, and you’ll have a big fight on your hands.” And Mother Nature decided that mums love cool weather! And you can tell too because that’s when mums really POP with color that we all love.

Now when growers try to FORCE that color by more-or-less ‘faking’ cool temperatures, two things happen: 1) The color pops (yay!) and 2) The actual length of bloom time drops significantly (aww…). I think we’ve all seen color-popped mums in the middle of August when we go grocery shopping. Remember, mums love cool weather and it is certainly not chilly in August…

Naturally grown mums bloom when they want to! Typically when the seasons change and the weather cools off. These mums are much much happier, bloom much much longer which makes you – much much happier!

Take a peek at our naturally grown mums on our facebook page – they are prime, beautiful and ready to POP any minute now so you can enjoy them for weeks!

Happy fall!

Don’t dump those patio containers just yet!

Tue, 16 Nov 2010 15:45:03 +0100

Don’t dump those patio containers just yet! With winter just around the corner, your pots can be transformed into the perfect holiday greeting for your friends and family – a ‘Christmas Container’!

The Right Pot

First things first – you need a container that can withstand the freeze and thaws of Illinois winters. Terra Cotta pots need to be stored indoors, but fiberglass, ceramic, concrete and most plastic containers are perfect for Christmas Containers.

Keep Your Soil

The soil in your pots creates an ideal base to hold your evergreen arrangement! Simply take a knife to cut out the existing plants just below ground level. Be sure to do this BEFORE it freezes solid... so sooner the better! Here’s another idea: if your planters have ornamental grasses or other great foliage plants (i.e. ivy), you can decorate these plants with a bit of metallic spray paint for a nice accent to your arrangement. TIP – use a paper sack to hold the leaves and then spray paint into the bag to avoid getting spray paint everywhere!

Evergreens & More Goodies

Consider some of your own evergreens to add to your containers! Trim a bit of arborvitae, pine, spruce, boxwood, and holly for great additions to your container. Of course we have everything you need to create your fantastic planter. Center your tallest branch first and fill in the sides and create a little depth to your arrangement. Fill in with your favorite greens between each branch and add in artificial picks, sprays and ribbon to complete your design! Even consider recycling your old Christmas tree decorations! You are limited to your imagination.

Looking for advice or more inspiration? Stop in any time for friendly (and festive!) seasonal advice – we’re always here to help!

Ella’s Advice :: Why Fraser Fir’s My Fav

Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:21:11 +0100

“Good Grief!” As much as we love Charlie Brown and his Christmas Tree, we do try and avoid that scenario as much as we can, don’t we! Fraser Firs are one of America’s favorite Christmas Trees – and mine too! And here’s a few quick reasons why:

Fraser Firs Stay Fresh

Fraser Firs hold on to their classic, dark-green needles much longer than other varieties of Christmas trees. They are very dependable and help ease that feeling of anxiety… “but what if it turns brown!”

And of course, the big benefit to these trees is their fantastic fragrance – the true scent of Christmas to welcome your family and friends into your home this season.

Easy to Decorate

Frasers have very straight trunks which make them easier to stand, even in larger sizes! Frasers also have softer needles to avoid that occasional stinging poke, stiff branches for those heavier ornaments, and an overall perfect shape for a Christmas tree – layers and layers of full branches ready for decorating. That’s why Fraser Firs are at the tip-top of my list for Christmas Trees!

Merry Christmas, Charlie Brown!

Get a Leg Up on your Lawn

Tue, 08 Mar 2011 11:30:18 +0100

Spring will be here before you know it and we’re as excited as you are. Spread out your early spring to-do list and take the first steps to a fantastic lawn today. Then you’ll be free to focus on the fun, colorful plants when the time comes.

TO DO #1: OVERSEEDING

Take a look at your lawn. If it looks great, congrats, you can skip this part. But if it’s looking thin or riddled with bare spots, we’re here to help you turn it around. Cool temps this time of year make it a terrific time to spot seed or overseed your lawn. SOME RULES FROM THE GREEN THUMB:

1. CHOOSE THE RIGHT SEED

A superior lawn starts with fresh, quality seed customized for Central Illinois lawns and blended to resist fungus and disease. Selections include: Professional Blend (sod quality, Kentucky bluegrass blend), Emerald Mix (most popular – for active outdoor families) and Shady Super Fine Mix (tolerates shade to part shade conditions).

2. PREPARE SOIL

Break up soil at least two to three inches deep with a hoe or shovel. Adding a little water to the soil the day before will make it easier to work.

3. SPREAD THE SEED

Sprinkle the seed like salt and pepper into the bare spots and the surrounding area. Lightly press the seed into the soil to ensure good contact. For best results, we recommend adding Ferti-lome New Lawn Starter fertilizer to the seeded area.

4. WATER!

Water gently initially, taking care not to displace seeds. Do not let seeds or sprouts dry out or they will die. Water every morning until you see slight puddling and, depending upon weather conditions, you may need to water twice a day. Seeds will not germinate at the same time. Until the planted area is showing a dense, green growth, do not allow it to dry out.

The best time to spot seed is typically the end of August through September, but early spring is also one of the best times to renovate as needed. Plus, doing it early leaves you plenty of time to enjoy it this summer.

**If you have a lawn care company fertilize your lawn, please notify them that you planted grass seed! The chemicals used will prevent the seed from germinating.

TO DO #2: START THE 4-STEP DIY LAWN PROGRAM

FERTI-LOME CRABGRASS PREVENTER PLUS LAWN FOOD**

** If you seeded your lawn, apply Scott’s Step 1 for Seeding. This product is formulated for crabgrass control and safe for grass seedlings. Other Step 1 products will prevent seed from germinating!

The ideal time to begin the 4-Step DIY Lawn Program is March through mid-April. You’re generally safe to start once the weather breaks and the forsythia is in bloom.

1. STEP ONE IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT

The first step provides a critical boost of fertilizer on the heels of winter and includes pre-emergent Crabgrass Control that can save a lot of time and trouble down the line. Hoerr Nursery recommends Ferti-lome Crabgrass Preventer plus Lawn Food to get you started.

2. STEP TWO

The next lawn application date is around Memorial Day.

Growing fantastic, green grass can be easy with the right tools and timing. And please let us know if you need any advice along the way. Of course, if you’d like to focus on other outdoor projects, our lawn and landscape teams are always available to tackle the job and leave you with one less To Do.

Magnolias Mean Spring

Wed, 06 Apr 2011 18:15:48 +0100

If you’re craving a little spring therapy, magnolias are eager to please. These traditional Southern Belles are easy to grow and surprisingly hardy right here in Peoria. The picturesque blooms carry a sweet, distinctive scent and come in a rainbow of creamy pastels. Check out some of our favorites and pick up a few pointers along the way. You’ll have no regrets!

Highlights

Depending on the variety, Magnolia blooms vary in creamy shades of pink, white, and yellow. They are easy to grow, relatively pest free and range in size from 15-25ft tall. As an added bonus for bird lovers, magnolia seeds are a favorite of songbirds.

Saucers & Stars

Magnolias blooms have distinctive saucer or star shapes. Saucer Magnolias typically come in tree form, with one stem reaching up to 25ft tall. Saucer blooms are much larger than stars, just not as prolific. Star Magnolias have a multi-stem, bush form. They are typically smaller, about 15ft tall and covered in smaller, star-shaped blooms.

Best Results

Most varieties perform best in full sun, although some will tolerate part shade, and well-drained, acidic soil.

Our Favorites

'Butterflies' Magnolia
Known for its fragrant, yellow tulip-like flowers, this variety grows up to 20ft tall on a single trunk (also grows as multi-stem) with a compact, pyramidal form.

'Royal Star' Magnolia
A shrub-like form that reaches up to 10-15ft tall and features showy, white star-shaped white flowers.

'Galaxy' Magnolia
Larger, tree form magnolia with upright branches (great for narrow spaces) and large, pink flowers that bloom late enough to avoid spring frost damage.

'Ann' Magnolia
Over-sized dark pink flowers that bloom a little later for a lower risk of frost damage. Noted for its shrubby form that reaches 10-15 ft tall.

Don't Be Afraid of Pruning

Tue, 12 Apr 2011 13:39:23 +0100

"...the greatest sin when it comes to pruning is simple: 'Not Pruning.'" Many thanks to the Peoria Journal Star for helping me spread the word about the importance of pruning and to NEVER top your trees!

Here's the link to the full article

PS - it even made it in the Beauregard Daily News down in DeRidder, LA! Thought that was fun!

If you have any questions on pruning, don't hesitate to ask.

Giving Pots Your Personal Touch

Wed, 04 May 2011 17:01:53 +0100

Container gardening keeps things manageable for busy people, people with limited space or budget, and those of us who want to experiment with new plants or color combinations.

Symmetry isn't all-important, but here's an easy 3-step guide to get you going.

Start with Your Thriller

This is the focal point- place this bold, upright scene-stealer in the center or toward the back to provide strong, distinctive architectural structure. It's often helpful to add the biggest plant first so you don't have to squeeze it in later.

We love :: Angelonia, Caladium or Salvia

Add Your Filler

Designed to cover the base of the Thriller and to mound or billow in the container, filling in the extra space.

We love :: ‘Diamond Frost’ Euphorbia, Coleus or Lantana

Finish with the Spiller

Extend the boundaries of your container with plants that cascade over the edges, adding softness and shape to the overall look.

We love :: Bacopa, Calibrachoa or Sweet Potato Vine

Ella's Advice: Go Native

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 13:25:56 +0100

We can all relate to those hard-to-grow areas, like heavy shade or those low spots that are mud most of the time. Here’s a few ideas using native plants that are incredibly easy to grow and also attract songbirds and butterflies.

What Do You Mean, Native Plants?

The simplest answer is: plants that have grown in this region of the globe even before colonial expansion. Over all that time, these plants adapted to various soil, water, weather and sunlight conditions as well as developed a strong tolerance to local common plant problems and diseases. Basically – native plants are tough!

Added Bonus

These plants are not only rewarding for you – but also for wildlife like songbirds and butterflies. Natives can provide an excellent source of food and shelter for many species all year long.

A Few Favorites

There are dozens to choose from - each with their own distinctive characteristics and qualities. Here’s a few that I enjoy: Happy Gardening!

Amethyst Falls Wisteria

A beautiful climbing vine, perfect for trellises and arbors. Its lavender-purple, grape-like flowers attract native butterflies and insects. Very easy to grow and blooms at a far earlier age than other Wisteria and it’s not as aggressive. Tolerates shade, but will only flower well in full sun.

Winterthur Viburnum

A compact cultivar with fragrant white flowers arranged in clusters April-May. The flowers provide nectar for butterflies, native bees and other pollinators. Flowers are followed by clusters of rounded berries that change color as they ripen from light pink to deep pink to blue to purplish-black. Glossy dark green leaves turn maroon or dark red-purple in fall. Plant in full sun to part shade.

Northern Bayberry

Very aromatic, dark green foliage with a thick branching habit form a wide, flowing shrub that thrives in a multitude of sun exposures and soils. In the winter, birds love the waxy gray berries and the dense twigs for cover.
Fun fact : Native strands of this plant provided an essential supply of aromatic oils that were historically used to manufacture soaps, candles and other household products even before colonial times. Even today, you can still find Bayberry candles.

Button Bush

NEW at Hoerr Nursery for 2011 - Tremendous source of nectar for hummingbirds, butterflies and other pollinators, and thrives in very wet conditions. Hundreds of tiny, creamy white flowers are packed into large showy flower heads, which dangle from the bush in August. The fragrant flower heads mature into round fruits each containing hundreds of nutlike seeds that are eaten by waterfowl and other birds.

Reclaim Your Lawn

Wed, 14 Sep 2011 09:42:47 +0100

Hot, dry summers can wreak havoc on lawns - leaving them dry, thin and spotty. But here’s the good news: right now is the best time to rejuvenate stressed and struggling lawns. Here’s your chance!

Introduce Great Quality Grass Seed

According to the University of Illinois, the ideal seed time is Aug 21 - Sept 21; although it can be safely stretched to the end of September.

With three specially formulated Hoerr Nursery seed selections to choose from, we’ll help you choose the one that’s right for you: a five-star, sure-to-make-your-neighbor-jealous lawn; a tough, all-purpose lawn for active outdoor families or for those hard-to-grow shady areas.

Start the New Grass Off Right

Loosen or till your soil before seeding - make sure the seed comes in contact with the soil.
Apply a starter fertilizer like Ferti-lome® New Lawn Starter
Water! Keep the soil surface moist is key; water at least once per day until the seed begins to germinate.

Aeration is One of the Best Things You Can Do for Your Lawn

Aerating in the fall will loosen soil, aid in root development, and control thatch. If you’re interested in aeration, give us a call at 309-689-2544 for a free consultation.

These Are No Ordinary Mums

Mon, 19 Sep 2011 15:58:11 +0100

Mums are the delight of fall decorators – large, lush mounds of blooms that brighten containers and gardens for weeks.

This year we are introducing four varieties from the new Autumn Crescendo Series of chrysanthemums that are bigger, better and here’s the best part – they are perennials! That’s right, they’ll be back year after year.

Autumn Crescendo Series:

Vigorous growers with gorgeous bright colors.
Huge mounds, 24” tall and 36” wide.
They are truly winter hardy!

Chrysanthemum ‘Bolero’

Deep gold, daisy-like flowers with exceptionally long flower petals. Blooms are about 3.5 inches wide and are great cut flowers.

Chrysanthemum ‘Rhumba’

Deep red buds open to coral-red blossoms which lighten to coral-peach as they mature. They are daisy-shaped with a yellow center and measure an average of 2 inches across.

Chrysanthemum ‘Samba’

This variety features single soft rose-pink petals with a soft yellow eye around a gold button center.

Chrysanthemum ‘Overture’

Deep russet red flowers with a gold button center provide an awesome splash of color at a time when ornamental grasses are at their peak.

What Does Mating Season Have To Do with My Trees?

Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:04:33 +0100

‘Tis the season for colorful leaves, cooler temperatures, football … and deer. Hunter’s hearts may be pumping, but homeowners with young trees beware! Mating season for deer may bring some serious damage to smaller trees.

Itchy Antlers?

Not quite! ‘The Rut’ is the time of year when bucks (male deer) compete to win over the does (female deer). One way of marking their territory and intimidating other bucks is to rub their antlers against unsuspecting trees. “Rubs” can significantly damage and weaken trees – even to the point it cannot recover.

Need to Know

Typically from early September through November
Most susceptible are young trees approximately 1-3 inches in diameter with a smooth bark – maples, magnolias, birches – although no tree is ‘off limits’
Deer tend to return to trees they have already damaged – to do even more damage
If damage wraps half way around the tree, usually it will not recover.

What Can I Do?

If deer frequently drop by your home or neighborhood, Bryon Rinkenberger, nursery manager at Hoerr Nursery recommends installing a tree guard.

“If the tree guard is installed before any rub damage, we have a 100% success rate at the tree farm – however, if the tree has been rubbed before, it won’t stop them from rubbing again.”

Unlike plastic pipe and film wraps, the rigid, open mesh style are super easy to install and allow water and light to reach the tree and provide plenty of air circulation.

Source: University of Idaho Extension [PDF]

Is it Too Early to Plant? [Video]

Fri, 30 Mar 2012 15:21:17 +0100

Hey guys! It's my first YouTube video -- leave a comment below, and feel free to post any questions for our next video!

Happy Planting!

Ella

Sometimes we forget

Tue, 08 Jul 2008 11:23:36 +0100

So, my gentle suggestion to each of us is to grab a little window of time and enjoy our garden spaces. After all, that’s what all our spring hustle and bustle in the garden has been about.

--Jane

Managing a Menace: Japanese Beetles

Thu, 17 Jul 2008 11:23:36 +0100

Controlling the Beetles

If it isn’t the best option for you, the sprays you can use are:

Sevin (Carbaryl)
Permethrin
Ortho Systemic Insect Killer (Orthene, or acephate)
Ortho Rose and Flower Insect Killer (bifenthrin insecticide)
Ortho Max Garden and Landscape Insectic Killer (esfenvalerate)
Bayer Rose and Flower Insect Killer (cyfuthrin and imidacloprid)

Japanese Beetle Traps

Best of luck in keeping them controlled.

--Dave

"Bee" Cautious with Chemicals

Fri, 08 Aug 2008 11:23:36 +0100

--Marilyn

Sounds to Relax By…

Tue, 19 Aug 2008 11:23:36 +0100

Now that your plants are blooming and things are lush, think about adding a fountain to your landscape or patio area for a “sounds to relax by” sanctuary!

--Kris

Emerald Ash Borer

Thu, 28 Aug 2008 11:23:36 +0100

What does this mean to homeowners?

Don’t bring firewood in from other areas. The borer cannot travel far on its own, so hitching a ride on a load of firewood is the most effective way to transport exotic wood boring insects.
The adult EAB is a mall, slender, green beetle that can fit on a penny.
The larval stage feeds under the bark of the tree; you won’t see it unless you cut into the tree.
The borer is very slow moving unless it is aided by humans.
You don’t need to treat your ash yet. The University of Illinois insists there is no need to treat until the insect is verified within 15 miles of your home. Some companies are advertising that you must treat your ash trees now, we do not consider this prudent. First of all, as we mentioned, the EAB is not yet present in Peoria, so chemical treatment is premature.
Stressed and weakened trees will most likely be attacked first. Keep your tree healthy for the best control.
If the insect becomes numerous, it is then that healthy trees become infected.
Once confirmed in your area, the U of I believes you will have adequate time to inoculate your ash tree(s) against the Emerald Ash Borer.
Because it is slow to spread, you will most likely to have 2 years to get your tree treated if you choose to, before it might attack your tree.
Emerald Ash Borer is not known to attack any other species but ash.
When and if you decide on a chemical treatment for your ash trees, you can treat the tree(s) yourself with imidacloprid. It is easy for a homeowner to apply imidacloprid. It is available through several brands such as Fertilome and Bayer. This gives 90% control, which the U of I considers to be excellent control measures.
If you are applying the imidacloprid, it requires annual applications. It takes 2 years before older trees are fully inoculated.
There is some concern about the affect of imidacloprid on bees. While it is not substantiated, consider whether to use an alternative control when available. Since bees do not pollinate ash, imidacloprid for ash should not be a threat to bees.
A tree service can apply Tree-Age. This control can give up to 2 years of control. A homeowner cannot apply this.
Ash trees can be subject to many problems. If you have problems on your ash, and the EAB is not in your area, there is likely to be another cause.
EAB cannot be detected until it has been in the tree for a few years.
Early detection requires destructive measures to the tree. Such methods are reserved for areas where EAB is confirmed.
Per the Illinois Department of Agriculture, symptoms of EAB-infestation include decline, crown dye-back, D-shaped exit holes, excess woodpecker damage, basal sprouting, and larval galleries.
If, after consultation with a local expert, an EAB infestation is suspected, you should contact the Illinois Department of Agriculture at 1-800-641-3934 or the EAB USDA hotline at 1-800-322-4512.

--Dave

Emerald Ash Borer Blog Update

Mon, 15 Sep 2008 11:23:36 +0100

This article is in response to the Emerald Ash Borer post on August 28

Contrary to advertisements by some tree services, Ash infected with EAB can be saved. To say, "Once an Ash tree is infested with EAB it is too late" is false information. EAB can be controlled in an ash that has been attacked by EAB, even up to 30% of the tree.
They reiterated that EAB moves only about 1/2 mile per year on its own. Therefore, the University of Illinois strongly believes that once the borer is found within 15 miles of your ash, you have a real good cushion of 7 years or more to get the tree treated.
Treatments against EAB must be done forever, like over a million years. So you will want to weigh the costs of treatment. Many municipalities are opting to remove ash in public areas rather than treat them, due to the cost.
Only Ash in the genus Fraxinus are susceptible. Mountainash, which is in the genus Sorbus, is resistant.
Damage most likely starts in the top of the tree. Early, D-shaped exit holes will not be noticeable from the ground. Other ash problems can also cause the top of the tree to thin out.
The Illinois Department of Agriculture recommends you contact a local expert to identify an insect that you suspect may be Emerald Ash Borer before calling them. You are welcome to bring your sample to Hoerr Nursery for ID.
The big purple traps are still hanging around, so it will be awhile before we hear the results for our area.
Most EAB have a one year life cycle. For larvae that hatched late, they will have a 2-year life cycle.

For more information about the Emerald Ash Borer, visit: www.IllinoisEAB.com

-Dave

Dead Nettle? Sneezeweed? And you paid good money for these?

Tue, 07 Oct 2008 11:23:36 +0100

… some of the funny names for some beautiful plants.

But, I get a kick out of the plants with hideous, ugly or silly names.

Dead Nettle?

Mother-in-law's Tongue?

Harry Lauder's Walking Stick

Harry Lauder was born in Scotland and The Special Collections of the Library at the University of Glasgow has a page dedicated to Sir Harry Lauder.

The following is my list of perfectly fine plants with some funny names:

Simple Stress Relievers

Thu, 12 Feb 2009 10:23:36 +0100

Ugh! That about summarizes this economy. What’s a person to do? Relieve stress by connecting to flowers and plants--the original “green” things! Here are some simple tips:

Buy some herbs

Even a couple of small pots can brighten your day. Rub your fingers through them anytime for a “pick me up.” Suggestions: basil, rosemary, any mint, thyme. Or your favorite. Use in cooking too!

Enjoy houseplants

Get some seeds

Dry some flowers

Edible flowers

Grow or buy some edible flowers (nasturtiums, pansies, or rose petals) and toss them on a salad. Or use for garnish for a dessert. You can make candied petals too. Use clean petals and simple syrup.

Take a class

Take photos

Visit Hoerr Nursery!

How To: Pruning Shrub Roses

Fri, 10 Apr 2009 11:23:36 +0100

Sprucing Up Your Fall Containers

Thu, 27 Aug 2009 11:23:36 +0100

Are we going to have an early Fall?

Tue, 08 Sep 2009 11:23:36 +0100

• Update your garden containers with fall plants – mums, grasses, pumpkins, etc. Mums are in full bloom and will last six weeks as will ornamental grasses and flowering kale.

• The weather is perfect for starting some fall yard work. Remember to get those weeds out before they seed, and cut back fading foliage from peony, iris, daylilies, etc.

• PLANT!!! There’s no need to stop planting when summer ends! You can safely plant trees, shrubs, and perennials until the ground is frozen. Stop out today - we're here to help!

Enjoy these early days of fall!

Ella Maxwell

Fall Tree Care Tips

Fri, 11 Sep 2009 11:23:36 +0100

As trees are preparing for their fall color display, you can help them prepare for a long, chilly winter. Follow these fall tree care tips to keep your tree healthy and strong:

• Get out the pruning saw and remove out dead branches now to prevent issues in the winter.

• Wrap young or newly planted tree trucks with tree-wrap paper to prevent sun-scalding over winter. Wrap in late fall and remove in early spring.

• Evergreens lose water from their foliage all winter, since they keep their needles year-round. Water them thoroughly before the ground freezes, and don’t forget the mulch!

Enjoy the beauty of fall!

Ella

Time to Plant Spring Bulbs!

Thu, 17 Sep 2009 11:23:36 +0100

If you’re like me, you’re already dreaming about your early spring garden! Now is the perfect time to plant spring flowering bulbs like tulips and daffodils.

Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil around the bulbs and provide the moisture needed to begin rooting.

*Note: To help you remember where you planted your bulbs, plant a single grape hyacinth bulb with each clump of bulbs. It produces foliage in the fall to mark where your bulbs have been planted!

Happy (fall) planting!

-Ella

Seven Tips to Jumpstart Your Lawn for 2010

Tue, 06 Oct 2009 11:23:36 +0100

October is here and it is not too late to work on your lawn! Fall is an excellent time to renovate the lawn and get a jump-start on a beautiful spring yard.

2. Plant new seed to introduce a better quality grass to your lawn. Fall is a great time to lay down new seed, but be sure you get it planted by October 15th!

5. Get a jump on weed control by applying a liquid spray like Weed Be Gone or a "weed and feed" granular fertilizer like Fertilome's Weed Out.

Love your lawn this fall and it will love you back in 2010!

Ella

Preparing Young Trees for Winter

Fri, 23 Oct 2009 11:23:36 +0100

• Continue to wrap tightly until you reach the first horizontal branch. Cut the wrap and secure with twine at the top. Avoid using nylon twine or wire.

• When spring arrives and warm temperatures return, carefully remove the tree wrap. Don't forget! Leaving it on during the warmer months can provide a habitat for harmful insects.

Take a little extra care to tuck your young trees in for the winter, and they will thank you for it in the spring!

Ella

We’re Expanding our Greenhouse!

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 10:23:36 +0100

Holiday Shoppers: Our Garden Center and GardenHouse will still be open during construction for holiday shopping - just watch your step!

Greenhouse Update – Taking Shape

Tue, 22 Dec 2009 10:23:36 +0100

Save Your Plants from Heavy Snow

Mon, 22 Feb 2010 10:23:36 +0100

2. It may be necessary to tie the plants together to help support each other. Use a soft tie - a soft material or some old pantyhose will do the trick - and tie the inside of the trunks together.

Introducing - Sara's Garden!

Thu, 18 Mar 2010 16:12:35 +0100

Let's Get Planting!

Wed, 31 Mar 2010 15:32:31 +0100

My chicken Reba loves to help with garden chores!

So tell me, what are you planting in your herb and veggie gardens?

Ella's Advice: Five Favorite Flowering Trees

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 16:49:36 +0100

First to Bloom: Apricot trees display delicate flowers and offer the promise of tasty fruit. Check out the Chinese Apricot tree.

Great for Small Spaces: Crabapple trees are small in size, but bloom so heavily they often hide entire branches of the tree. My personal favorite is ‘Tina’ Crabapple.

New this Year: ‘Butterflies’ Magnolia has unique yellow blooms instead of the traditional pink and grows to be a nice sized ornamental tree.

Unique: ‘Ivory Silk’ Lilac Tree combines the huge fragrant flowers of a lilac bush with the stature of a flowering tree. It bears clusters of creamy-white flowers around Memorial Day.

A traditional Pink Saucer Magnolia

While these are some of my favorites, there are many more flowering trees to choose from. To see our full selection of flowering trees, visit Plant-o-Pedia.

Happy Spring!

Ella

Sara's Garden: Journaling and My First Recipe!

Fri, 23 Apr 2010 09:12:55 +0100

Have you ever heard the saying “In order to live off a garden, you practically have to live in it”? Well I’ve been living in my garden lately, and it’s really starting to pay off!

April 2

Planted bare-root asparagus ‘Purple Passion’ and ‘Jersey Giant’ along the SW side of my garage. Planted remaining strawberries in my raised patch. Planted one row each of carrot ‘Science Fiction’ and lettuce ‘Black Seeded Simpson’. Planted two rows of peas ‘Sugar Daddy’ and ‘Progress #9’ (all specific varieties listed were purchased and are available at Hoerr Nursery)
Made bamboo teepees about 4 feet tall along the middle of one of my beds to support my climbing peas.

April 3

It rained last night and FILLED my 44-gallon rainbarrel! I’ll use the recycled water in my garden when we’re low on rain.
Installed motion activated flood lights as a deer deterrent. I’ve been covering my babies with a thick layer of straw, old milk crates and flower pots at night to protect them from deer but as the plants get bigger and more established, I will need a more permanent solution.

April 12

Started seeds indoors of ‘Sweetie’ cherry and ‘Brandywine Mix’ tomatoes, green bell pepper and red Italian pepper.
My spinach, lettuce, pea, radish and carrot seedlings are starting to get their new sets of leaves. And my onions are at least 8 inches tall!

April 15

Started some sweet basil seeds in peat pots in the greenhouse. When the danger of frost is gone, I’ll plant them out with my tomatoes in my “salsa garden” at Hoerr Nursery.

2010 Veggie Varieties

Mon, 26 Apr 2010 15:01:05 +0100

Tomatoes

Peppers

'Flavorburst' 'Great Stuff' 'Jalapeño Gigante'

‘Great Stuff’ - This jumbo, 7-inch long, 5-inch wide pepper ripens from green to dark red. Excellent in any garden, Great Stuff is resistant to pests. Perfect for slicing, stuffing or baking.

Cucumber

'Bush Champion' 'Sweet Burpless'

‘Bush Champion’ - Bush types take one-third the space, so they're great for containers and raised beds. Bush Champion produces huge, 11-inch cukes with amazing flavor and wide adaptability.

‘Sweet Burpless’ - An exceptional burpless slicing cuke with a sweet flavor, Sweet Burpless produces green, 10 to 12-inch, cylindrical, smooth fruits on vigorous plants.

Ella's Advice: Caring for your Hanging Baskets

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 09:06:50 +0100

Third, assemble your basket! Planting hanging baskets is as easy as any potted plant, but there are a few tips to follow to keep your flowers growing:

A key element to any successful gardening project is quality soil! Since hanging baskets can dry out very quickly, choose a moisture-control potting soil such as Miracle-Gro Moisture Control.
Make sure your basket is at least 14 inches in diameter – this will ensure your plants will have adequate soil and moisture. If your basket dries out completely, submerge it in water and let it absorb as much as it can handle - this will boost its chances of recovery.
Keep your plants fertilized with a slow release fertilizer like Osmocote. This fertilizer is activated and released at every watering.
By mid July, cut back the plants to encourage growth and add more slow release fertilizer to keep your baskets looking great! Be sure to rotate the basket so that all sides receive adequate light.

Remember - if you don’t have time to assemble your own, you can come in and view our huge selection of hanging baskets, or have one of our associates create a custom basket for you!

Happy Spring!

Ella

Sara's Garden: 3 Reasons to Interplant Flowers with Your Veggies

Wed, 19 May 2010 11:38:51 +0100

Are you convinced yet? Here are some great reasons to plant flowers among your veggies and herbs:

Here are some diagrams I made that can help you remember which plants are great for your veggie garden:

Sara's Garden: Planting My Salsa Garden!

Thu, 27 May 2010 16:11:34 +0100

In one trough I planted organic cilantro from Hoerr Nursery and basil that I grew from seed. I can’t wait to chop these up and throw them in my salsa for some fresh flavor!

My other trough is filled with the best little cherry tomato plants! This variety is called ‘Red Robin’ and it’s made to stay small and bushy – perfect for container planting!

In the raised bed I planted these varieties:

Tomatoes

‘Black Cherry’
‘Brandywine’ Heirloom
‘Fresh Salsa Hybrid’
‘Green Zebra’ Heirloom
‘Lemon Boy’
‘Red Robin’
‘Yellow Pear’

Peppers

‘Chocolate’
‘Golden Bell’
‘Lady Bell’
‘Red Beauty’ Sweet Bell
‘Salsarific’ Habanero
‘Salsarific’ Jalapeno
‘Salsarific’ Poblano
‘Valencia Orange’

I also planted gazanias and marigolds to add some color and attract beneficial insects!

I’m so excited to finally have this bed planted up! Be sure to check out the progress next time you’re at Hoerr Nursery!

So…anyone have a favorite salsa recipe to share? I’ve got lots of ingredients growing!

Sara's Garden: Summer Garden Recipes

Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:17:32 +0100

Fresh Basil Pesto Recipe

Ella's Advice: Top Five Gardening Mistakes

Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:28:45 +0100

Ella's Advice: Japanese Beetle Tips

Wed, 07 Jul 2010 15:41:12 +0100

Quick Facts about Japanese Beetles:

They feed for 6 to 8 weeks from late June through August.
They eat between the veins of a leaf, leaving it dried and lacey.
They can stress plant material but rarely inflict enough damage to kill it.

Japanese Beetles do have favorite plants, but they feed on a large variety of trees, shrubs, and flowers - especially on yellow colored rose flowers or ripening fruits like raspberries and grapes.

Favorite plants:

Linden, birch, cherry and plum trees
Plants in the rose family
Grapes and red raspberries
Virginia creeper
Porcelain berry vine
Rose of Sharon and other mallow
Onethera and many others

Control
If Japanese Beetles are already present in your landscape you have a few options for controlling the damage they inflict.

Physical Removal
The least invasive method of control is to physically remove the insects from your plants. Japanese Beetles are fairly clumsy and will fall off a branch when it is shaken. Hold a bucket of soapy water under the branch while you shake it to collect the beetles. Use liquid dish soap, as plain water doesn't quite do the trick - the beetles can survive and swim around in it for days.

Japanese Beetle Traps
You can also hang traps that lure beetles using a pheromone scent. These traps have replaceable collection bags or containers to dispose of trapped beetles. You should only use the traps if there is a heavy infestation. Be sure not to place them near the desirable plants - hang them in a nearby area to draw them away.

Chemical Control
Another method of control is with the use of a chemical product. This option may be necessary for large infestations that cause serious plant damage. All general use insecticides will control beetles, and most require direct contact to kill the beetle. Be sure to follow label instructions when spraying.

Spray insecticides later in the day when adult beetles are less likely to fly off and bees may not be working. Apply carbaryl sold as “Sevin” or permethrin or other pyrethroid sprays. You may also apply imidacloprid as a drench in early spring to prevent damage to a favored tree.

For more advice on dealing with Japanese Beetles, call or stop by the Garden Center to speak with one of our horticulturists.

Click here to see our Growing Guide on Japanese Beetles.

Ella Maxwell

Ps. Be sure to watch my talk on Japanese Beetles on the Mid-day Gardener tomorrow! Tune to the WEEK noon news cast and watch for the program around 12:20pm after Mr. Food.

Ella's Advice: 10 Best Value Plants

Tue, 13 Jul 2010 14:28:27 +0100

Sedum One of the most reliable growers, sedum provides star-shaped blooms well into fall and attracts butterflies. Fall blooming varieties also offer fuel for monarchs and other late fliers on their journey south. Why we love it: Sedum is one of the first perennials to emerge in the spring, offering interesting foliage until it erupts with blooms from late summer through the end of fall.
Yarrow (Achillea) Yarrow grows in almost any conditions, providing vibrant colored blooms in the garden until frost. Some of our favorite varieties are Moonshine (light-yellow), Apricot Delight (pink), and Strawberry Seduction (red). Why we love it: Yarrow is very tolerant of heat and humidity, has a long bloom season and even grows well in a pot.
Coreopsis Also known as Tickseed, this plant produces sunny yellow flowers and thrives in dry conditions. Interesting varieties include Tequila Sunrise (variegated leaves), Crème Brulee (light yellow), and Jethro Tull (fluted petals). Why we love it: Native to the Southwest United States and Mexico, this perennial can take the heat and still perform beautifully.
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia) This cheerful perennial offers large, daisy-like blooms from early summer through fall. Considered a wildflower by some, the bright red and yellow blooms look great in a tidy border or naturalized landscape. Why we love it: This plant is very tough and cheerful! The bright colors will add a touch of whimsy and wilderness to any area of your garden.
Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) Just when we need a breath of fresh air in the late summer heat, butterfly bushes happily burst into bloom. At a time when many other plants are already spent, buddleias are just beginning their show. Their passive coloring and texture makes a wonderful backdrop for perennials, and you'll love the butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds that flock to their honey-scented blossoms. Why we love it: Deer resistant, fragrant, drought-tolerant, attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds and even great in a cut flower arrangement – you can’t ask much more in a perennial!
Coneflower (Echinacea) This native plant has become a standard for the summer perennial garden. Coneflowers are accustomed to harsh prairie conditions, and they are great at tolerating heat, drought, and wind. They’re even a source of seed for birds long after they stop blooming. Some of our favorites are Kim’s Knee High (dwarf), Tomato Soup (red petals), Pink Double Delight (double pink petals), Mac ‘n’ Cheese (yellow petals) and more! Why we love it: Available in a wide variety of colors, sizes, and shapes, coneflowers are some of the best perennial flowers for late summer and early fall.
Agastache This drought-tolerant perennial is often forgotten, but it’s the perfect addition to any wildlife habitat, with flowers that attract butterflies, hummingbirds and bees all summer long. Agastache boasts a compact, upright growing habit, fuzzy licorice-scented leaves and lovely, nectar-rich blue-lavender flower spikes Why we love it: The tall blooms provide a great backdrop for other perennials and annuals in the landscape.
Knock Out Rose There’s a reason we call them Knock Out Roses! This family of roses has stunning flower power with a generous bloom cycle (about every 5-6 weeks) that will continue until the first hard frost. These low maintenance roses are easy to grow and extremely disease resistant. Why we love it: Knock Out Roses can fit into any landscape. Plant them individually among shrubs, annuals and perennials, or in clusters for a dramatic visual impact.
Hens & Chicks (Sempervivum) We love this tough plant for its rosette-shaped clusters of leaves. It can grow in shallow or rocky terrain in the garden, and is also very attractive in containers. The plants can be divided easily at any time by pulling up some of the "chicks" and replanting them elsewhere Why we love it: Sempervivum is very forgiving. It can go for days without water, and then perk right back up once you remember.
Ornamental Grasses These perennials are the perfect garden backdrop, adding texture, color and fullness to any space. Look for switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) for beautiful fall color and feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) for a stately sweep up to 5 feet tall. Why we love it: Ornamental grass offers year-round interest and adds a touch of drama and looks perfectly at home in the Midwest landscape.

Ella's Advice: Top Tips for Mosquito Control

Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:31:51 +0100

Few things can put a damper on your outdoor summer activities like mosquitoes! These pesky critters roam our landscapes from May to September, just looking for their next meal!

Follow these simple steps to put mosquitoes in their place and start enjoying your landscape again!

All of these mosquito-treating products can be found in the Plant Pharmacy at Hoerr Nursery. And for a limited time, Bonide Mosquito Beater products are half off!

Enjoy your summer and live at peace with your landscape!

Ella

Sara's Garden: Watering in the Heat of Summer

Tue, 10 Aug 2010 15:36:02 +0100

As August arrives, we begin to wind into the hottest and driest days of the summer. Now is the time to consider different ways to supplement rainwater and keep your veggies growing!

Keep an eye open for my next post on scouting for and managing garden pests!

Not All Mums are Created Equal

Thu, 23 Sep 2010 12:33:10 +0100

Natural vs Forced

Take a peek at our naturally grown mums on our facebook page – they are prime, beautiful and ready to POP any minute now so you can enjoy them for weeks!

Happy fall!

Don’t dump those patio containers just yet!

Tue, 16 Nov 2010 15:45:03 +0100

The Right Pot

Keep Your Soil

Evergreens & More Goodies

Looking for advice or more inspiration? Stop in any time for friendly (and festive!) seasonal advice – we’re always here to help!

Ella’s Advice :: Why Fraser Fir’s My Fav

Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:21:11 +0100

Fraser Firs Stay Fresh

And of course, the big benefit to these trees is their fantastic fragrance – the true scent of Christmas to welcome your family and friends into your home this season.

Easy to Decorate

Merry Christmas, Charlie Brown!

Get a Leg Up on your Lawn

Tue, 08 Mar 2011 11:30:18 +0100

TO DO #1: OVERSEEDING

1. CHOOSE THE RIGHT SEED

2. PREPARE SOIL

Break up soil at least two to three inches deep with a hoe or shovel. Adding a little water to the soil the day before will make it easier to work.

3. SPREAD THE SEED

4. WATER!

**If you have a lawn care company fertilize your lawn, please notify them that you planted grass seed! The chemicals used will prevent the seed from germinating.

TO DO #2: START THE 4-STEP DIY LAWN PROGRAM

FERTI-LOME CRABGRASS PREVENTER PLUS LAWN FOOD**

The ideal time to begin the 4-Step DIY Lawn Program is March through mid-April. You’re generally safe to start once the weather breaks and the forsythia is in bloom.

1. STEP ONE IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT

2. STEP TWO

The next lawn application date is around Memorial Day.

Magnolias Mean Spring

Wed, 06 Apr 2011 18:15:48 +0100

Highlights

Saucers & Stars

Best Results

Most varieties perform best in full sun, although some will tolerate part shade, and well-drained, acidic soil.

Our Favorites

'Butterflies' Magnolia
Known for its fragrant, yellow tulip-like flowers, this variety grows up to 20ft tall on a single trunk (also grows as multi-stem) with a compact, pyramidal form.

'Royal Star' Magnolia
A shrub-like form that reaches up to 10-15ft tall and features showy, white star-shaped white flowers.

'Galaxy' Magnolia
Larger, tree form magnolia with upright branches (great for narrow spaces) and large, pink flowers that bloom late enough to avoid spring frost damage.

'Ann' Magnolia
Over-sized dark pink flowers that bloom a little later for a lower risk of frost damage. Noted for its shrubby form that reaches 10-15 ft tall.

Don't Be Afraid of Pruning

Tue, 12 Apr 2011 13:39:23 +0100

Here's the link to the full article

PS - it even made it in the Beauregard Daily News down in DeRidder, LA! Thought that was fun!

If you have any questions on pruning, don't hesitate to ask.

Giving Pots Your Personal Touch

Wed, 04 May 2011 17:01:53 +0100

Container gardening keeps things manageable for busy people, people with limited space or budget, and those of us who want to experiment with new plants or color combinations.

Symmetry isn't all-important, but here's an easy 3-step guide to get you going.

Start with Your Thriller

We love :: Angelonia, Caladium or Salvia

Add Your Filler

Designed to cover the base of the Thriller and to mound or billow in the container, filling in the extra space.

We love :: ‘Diamond Frost’ Euphorbia, Coleus or Lantana

Finish with the Spiller

Extend the boundaries of your container with plants that cascade over the edges, adding softness and shape to the overall look.

We love :: Bacopa, Calibrachoa or Sweet Potato Vine

Ella's Advice: Go Native

Mon, 13 Jun 2011 13:25:56 +0100

What Do You Mean, Native Plants?

Added Bonus

These plants are not only rewarding for you – but also for wildlife like songbirds and butterflies. Natives can provide an excellent source of food and shelter for many species all year long.

A Few Favorites

There are dozens to choose from - each with their own distinctive characteristics and qualities. Here’s a few that I enjoy: Happy Gardening!

Amethyst Falls Wisteria

Winterthur Viburnum

Northern Bayberry

Button Bush

Reclaim Your Lawn

Wed, 14 Sep 2011 09:42:47 +0100

Introduce Great Quality Grass Seed

According to the University of Illinois, the ideal seed time is Aug 21 - Sept 21; although it can be safely stretched to the end of September.

Start the New Grass Off Right

Loosen or till your soil before seeding - make sure the seed comes in contact with the soil.
Apply a starter fertilizer like Ferti-lome® New Lawn Starter
Water! Keep the soil surface moist is key; water at least once per day until the seed begins to germinate.

Aeration is One of the Best Things You Can Do for Your Lawn

Aerating in the fall will loosen soil, aid in root development, and control thatch. If you’re interested in aeration, give us a call at 309-689-2544 for a free consultation.

These Are No Ordinary Mums

Mon, 19 Sep 2011 15:58:11 +0100

Mums are the delight of fall decorators – large, lush mounds of blooms that brighten containers and gardens for weeks.

Autumn Crescendo Series:

Vigorous growers with gorgeous bright colors.
Huge mounds, 24” tall and 36” wide.
They are truly winter hardy!

Chrysanthemum ‘Bolero’

Deep gold, daisy-like flowers with exceptionally long flower petals. Blooms are about 3.5 inches wide and are great cut flowers.

Chrysanthemum ‘Rhumba’

Deep red buds open to coral-red blossoms which lighten to coral-peach as they mature. They are daisy-shaped with a yellow center and measure an average of 2 inches across.

Chrysanthemum ‘Samba’

This variety features single soft rose-pink petals with a soft yellow eye around a gold button center.

Chrysanthemum ‘Overture’

Deep russet red flowers with a gold button center provide an awesome splash of color at a time when ornamental grasses are at their peak.

What Does Mating Season Have To Do with My Trees?

Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:04:33 +0100

Itchy Antlers?

Need to Know

Typically from early September through November
Most susceptible are young trees approximately 1-3 inches in diameter with a smooth bark – maples, magnolias, birches – although no tree is ‘off limits’
Deer tend to return to trees they have already damaged – to do even more damage
If damage wraps half way around the tree, usually it will not recover.

What Can I Do?

If deer frequently drop by your home or neighborhood, Bryon Rinkenberger, nursery manager at Hoerr Nursery recommends installing a tree guard.

“If the tree guard is installed before any rub damage, we have a 100% success rate at the tree farm – however, if the tree has been rubbed before, it won’t stop them from rubbing again.”

Unlike plastic pipe and film wraps, the rigid, open mesh style are super easy to install and allow water and light to reach the tree and provide plenty of air circulation.

Source: University of Idaho Extension [PDF]

Is it Too Early to Plant? [Video]

Fri, 30 Mar 2012 15:21:17 +0100

Hey guys! It's my first YouTube video -- leave a comment below, and feel free to post any questions for our next video!

Happy Planting!

Ella

Hoerr Nursery Blog

Sometimes we forget

Managing a Menace: Japanese Beetles

Controlling the Beetles

Japanese Beetle Traps

"Bee" Cautious with Chemicals

Sounds to Relax By…

Emerald Ash Borer

What does this mean to homeowners?

Related Links:

Emerald Ash Borer Blog Update

Dead Nettle? Sneezeweed? And you paid good money for these?

Dead Nettle?

Mother-in-law's Tongue?

Harry Lauder's Walking Stick

Simple Stress Relievers

Buy some herbs

Enjoy houseplants

Get some seeds

Dry some flowers

Edible flowers

Take a class

Take photos

Visit Hoerr Nursery!

How To: Pruning Shrub Roses

Sprucing Up Your Fall Containers

Are we going to have an early Fall?

Fall Tree Care Tips

Time to Plant Spring Bulbs!

Seven Tips to Jumpstart Your Lawn for 2010

Preparing Young Trees for Winter

We’re Expanding our Greenhouse!

Greenhouse Update – Taking Shape

Save Your Plants from Heavy Snow

Introducing - Sara's Garden!

Let's Get Planting!

Ella's Advice: Five Favorite Flowering Trees

Sara's Garden: Journaling and My First Recipe!

2010 Veggie Varieties

Ella's Advice: Caring for your Hanging Baskets

Sara's Garden: 3 Reasons to Interplant Flowers with Your Veggies

Sara's Garden: Planting My Salsa Garden!

Sara's Garden: Summer Garden Recipes

Ella's Advice: Top Five Gardening Mistakes

Ella's Advice: Japanese Beetle Tips

Ella's Advice: 10 Best Value Plants

Ella's Advice: Top Tips for Mosquito Control

Sara's Garden: Watering in the Heat of Summer

Not All Mums are Created Equal

Natural vs Forced

Don’t dump those patio containers just yet!

The Right Pot

Keep Your Soil

Evergreens & More Goodies

Ella’s Advice :: Why Fraser Fir’s My Fav

Fraser Firs Stay Fresh

Easy to Decorate

Get a Leg Up on your Lawn

TO DO #1: OVERSEEDING

1. CHOOSE THE RIGHT SEED

2. PREPARE SOIL

3. SPREAD THE SEED

4. WATER!

TO DO #2: START THE 4-STEP DIY LAWN PROGRAM

1. STEP ONE IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT

2. STEP TWO

Magnolias Mean Spring

Highlights

Saucers & Stars

Best Results

Our Favorites

Don't Be Afraid of Pruning

Giving Pots Your Personal Touch

Start with Your Thriller

Add Your Filler

Finish with the Spiller

Ella's Advice: Go Native

What Do You Mean, Native Plants?

Added Bonus

A Few Favorites