Lawn Establishment

Your lawn will never be any better than the soil it roots into. We recommend having your soil tested before planting so you can take corrective measures first, for better results later. The black or dark brown topsoils of Illinois usually yield good results without testing. However, many of the homes built today have their topsoil stripped away, or covered by the poor subsoil excavated during basement installation.

To ensure your lawn's success, have it tested three to four weeks prior to doing the work. Soil modifications and some fertilizations are done in advance of seeding or laying sod. (See Growing Guide: Soil Testing for more information)

Weed removal is necessary to avoid competition with the tender seedlings. To control perennial weeds (quackgrass and dandelion) which can grow back from small pieces of root, spray unwanted vegetation with Round-up (glyphosate). Wait 10 days before cultivating to ensure complete kill. If necessary to retreat, spray and then wait 3-7 days to cultivate.

Soil modification may not be economically feasible for large lawns, although it can make a significant difference in the turf's performance. Compost, Better Earth, sphagnum peat, and manure can be used as amendments. By adding these to clay or sandy soils, you improve the grasses' chance to root deeply, take up nutrients, resist diseases, and be dense and dark green.

Soil fertility is amended according to the soil test recommendations. If phosphorous or potassium is needed, they should be incorporated into the soil. If adding sulfur (which acidifies the soil) or horticultural lime (which sweetens the soil), that should also be worked in. Adding these without incorporation greatly reduces their effectiveness. Contrary to common practice, do not apply lime to a lawn without first having the soil tested. Add nitrogen after seeding, using a starter fertilizer.

Create a level grade before seeding. The better job you do then, the more satisfied you’ll be in a couple of years. Rolling the lawn never sufficiently reduces bumps or mounds and actually damages the soil's structure. First do a rough grade of the lawn to make it level and properly sloped. Add or relocate soil as required. (If bringing in topsoil, one ton of topsoil covers about 300 sq. ft. at one-inch deep.) Be sure to add enough soil along the foundation to give a 2% - 3% slope away from foundations of buildings.

Apply any fertilizers or soil amendments to the rough grade, and cultivate a six-inch depth. This loosens compacted soil for easier turfgrass establishment. The soil should not be powder-fine, rather pea-sized soil particles are best. Now finish the lawn base with a final grade.

Seeding is done after final grading. Use a drop spreader for even seed distribution. With the spreader set at half rate, make two passes over the entire lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. Following seeding, lightly rake the entire area to stir the seed into the soil. The seed should be covered no more than 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep. A light rolling with a roller (1/4 to 1/2) full of water will help to ensure good seed to soil contact, without damaging the soil's structure.

Mulching the new seeding with straw hastens germination and protects the young seedlings from the heat stress and heavy rains. Wet the straw down to prevent it from blowing away. On slopes, mulch also reduces erosion. Use products like erosionet, excelsior blanket or burlap. The new, white seed germination fabrics create optimum growing conditions; following germination, remove it and reuse it. Anchor the fabric with "U" staples.

Watering is critical for seed germination: too much or too little alters the success. Keep the top soil layer evenly moist by applying a minimum of 1/4” of water twice per day. Avoid applying too much water at a time which creates puddles. More frequent watering is necessary in hot and windy weather. Maintain watering daily until all seed varieties germinate and establishes, until the second or third mowing. Bluegrass germinates in four to six weeks, the longest for turfgrass seed.