Basics of Water Gardening

Location
Open area: 6 hours of high levels of sun

• Full sun is necessary for optimum bloom of lilies and other full sun plants.
• Provides perfect environment for algae growth unless sufficient filtering, surface cover, and adequate number of submerged plants are included in system.
• Can lead to low levels of oxygen at times of high temperature unless fountain or waterfall is provided.

Partially Shaded: Min. 4 hrs sunlight

• Gives wildlife relief from intense sun.
• Cuts down on algae growth.
• Can be susceptible to leaf fall, root damage and organic build-up. More maintenance required; i.e. surface skimmer, more filter cleaning, etc.
• Provides a cooler place to linger and enjoy your pond.

Water Conditions
pH levels: Range 6.5 to 8.5; 7.5 optimum It is unnecessary to adjust unless level exceeds 8.5.

Ammonia levels:

• 0ppm - sign of well balanced system
• 0ppm - tolerable, but test frequently
• 0ppm - immediate water change of 25% - 50%; check bottom of pond for excess organic build-up.

Dissolved Oxygen:

• Major sources of dissolved oxygen are photosynthesis and diffusion, movement of O from high levels of concentration (air) to low levels of concentration (water)
• Dissolved oxygen is the leading cause of stress for fish.
• Maintain levels of 5mg/l or greater for optimum fish health. 2mg/l will result in death of fish.
• Oxygen levels decrease with higher temps. Remedy: Increase water surface with use of a fountain, waterfall, bubbler, or some kind of upward water movement.

Dechlorination:
Upon filling your pond either add appropriate amount of dechlorinating agent or let the water set for at least two weeks before adding fish to allow for escape of chorine.

Materials

Pond liners:
Pre-formed liners:

• Set in sand to resist heaving
• Coping stones set around edges hide top edge and resist UV breakdown.

EPDM rubber liner:

• Will accommodate any size and shape
• Sand at base of excavation and underliner required to resist root interference and cushion against puncture from upper side.
• Coping stones to cover edge or liner and give finished look to pond.
• Both are resistant to UV rays, the primary reason for liner failure, as long as the pond is kept filled or shaded, covering all liner surfaces.
• Always use some stones in bottom of pond to increase surface for colonization of beneficial bacteria and to hold liner in place. Avoid use of lime based stones such as flagstone - they will make it impossible to keep the pH level within a safe range.

Stocking Levels

• For every 1-2 Sq. ft. of surface -
• 2 bunches submerged plants,6 stems
• 2 inches of fish up to 6 inches or 1 inch/ 5 gallons of water
• For every 3-6 sq. ft of surface area -
• One marginal plant and one floater
• One water lily
• Number for submerged plants are essential minimum
• Number for fish are absolute MAXIMUM
• Number for floaters and marginals can be adjusted either way by 50%.
• Surface coverage: Make adjustments according to your own needs
• 100 sq. ft. surface areas and less - 60% - 70% cover
• 1000 sq. ft. surface area - 50% cover

Calculating Pond Measurements
For size of EPDM pond liner:

• Length = max. length + 2(depth) + 4ft.
• Width = max. width + 2(depth) + 4ft.
• EXAMPLE: 10 ' X 8'
• 10 + 2(2) + 4 = 18
• 8 + 2(2) + 4 = 16
• 18' x 16' liner
• The 4' measurement refers to a 2' overhang on each edge (ground surface level).

Pond Surface:

• Length x width = sq ft of surface (any pond shape but circular)
• 3.14 x (1/2 diameter x 1/2 diameter) = sq ft of surface - circular pond

For cubic foot volume:

• Length x width x depth = cubic feet
• Capacity in gallons:
• Cubic feet x 7.8 = gallons

Algae
The worst attack of green or brown algae a pond faces is the murky period after you first fill and dechlorinate your pond. It begins within a week and grows denser by the day. A pond started in spring usually clears in six to eight weeks, especially if the pond includes the requisite number of plants and a biological filter. A well stocked pond begun in hot weather occasionally stays murky for more than eight weeks. Once the water clears up, it should stay clear except for a brief murky period each spring. Algae respond more quickly to the warmth of spring than do other plants competing with it for nutrients. In established water gardens, the algae gets a head start a week or two after warm weather wakens the pond and lasts a few weeks. Then the submerged plants, water lilies, ornamentals and bacteria colonies outstrip the algae in taking up nutrients and the greenwater algae lose out. Algae are one of nature's contributions to the ecosystem that you have created. Borne on the wind by invisible spores, algae grow wherever the find light, warmth, nutrients and water.

There are three types of algae: The filamentous type that mosses the sides of the pond and the rocks with deep green fuzzy stems - this is beneficial type that provide oxygen, take up nutrients (*that feed algae) and make the pond look more natural. The second type occur in long strings that may, if not physically removed, clog the filter or die and sink to the bottom, creating an overload of organic mater in the system. The third type, unicellular algae, is the principal maker of murk. Some is visible and some invisible to the naked eye, but it gives the pond a green or brown cast and is unwanted by most pondkeepers. Providing a balanced ecosystem in the pond will keep algae at bay and provide clear water in which your favorite fish and other wildlife — frogs, butterflies, turtles, birds —can make their home and provide endless enjoyment for you.

Filtering Your Pond

Biological filtration:
This brings us to filtering naturally by means of a man-made system. A bit of an oxymoron, but it’s possible.

Nature provides all of the components to support life in an aquatic environment and on its surrounding banks. Along with this, the water remains clear, as long as pollutants are not introduced, and the ecosystem thrives on its own.

When we build a pond, we create and maintain an artificial ecosystem. One of the main components of the system is a biological filter. The filter consists of a tank (size suitable to the water capacity of your pond), mounted outside the pond, filled with spun media, rock, brushes, etc., to provide greater surface area for beneficial bacteria growth. The water is then pumped from the far end of the pond by way of flexible plastic tubing into the lower level of the tank and allowed to rise to the top, though the media, spilling back into the pond, to be recycled continuously. The bacteria living in the media change the toxic organic waste (nitrates) for the plants. If enough plants are provided, especially submerged plants, they will consume the nitrates, leaving insufficient amount for algae growth. RESULT:Clear water!

The bacteria occur naturally and increase their colonies as the water warms in the spring and summer. However, you can enhance the number of bacteria by manually seeding your system with commercially available bacteria. Liquid live bacteria held in suspension with a shelf life of one year are readily available. Introduce according to directions on the label. The biological filter needs cleaning once a year in the fall when it is time to shut down the system for winter.

Mechanical Filtration:
Small ponds (less than 300 gallons) can thrive by means of a submerged filter box attached to the pump that is also at the bottom of the pond. It is either filtered with sponge, media or pea gravel and needs frequent cleaning. Daily cleaning is necessary when algae bloom is at its height. This system can also benefit from manual bacteria addition.

Pump Requirements

Mechanical Filtration Systems
Water needs to be recycled once per hour. So if you have a 200 gallon pond you would need a pump that has a capacity of 200 gallons per hour.

Biological Filtration System
Water should be recycled once every 2-3 hours. The slower movement allows the bacteria in the system to do its job.

Pump Capacity
Pump power is measured n amps, but is sold in gallons per hour. Your pump requirements, however, depend on the distance and the height that the water needs to be pumped and the size of the tubing used to attach the pump to the filter, fountain or other water feature. Pay special attention to the specifications printed on the box.

Usually the pump capacity is based on pumping ten horizontal and one vertical foot, using tubing that fits the pump output. If your needs are different than these, the rule of thumb is – ten feet horizontal = one foot vertical. Increase or decrease of either distance, height or size of tubing changes the specs and should be adjusted according to your needs.