How a tree wants to be treated

Homeowners are continually surprised and well, saddened when I have to tell them the reason their tree is in bad shape is because of something they did that’s causing stress to their tree. Here are some examples:

Improper Planting Depth

When planting, position the top of the container tree or balled and burlapped tree higher than the existing soil level. About 2" higher is ideal. Dig the hole wider than the container, not deeper. Any loosened soil below the root ball will sink in time so backfilling the depth is NOT a good idea. Roots only grow 12” to 24” deep; they need room to grow horizontally. And planting too deep deprives the roots of necessary oxygen – which is a no, no.

Killing a Tree with Kindness

Killing a tree with kindness is pretty common, unfortunately. What I mean is if the leaves of the tree become droopy and discolored, the owner’s think – hmm, you must be thirsty! Keep in mind, it is possible to over-water your trees. What I do is stick a trowel in the soil and wiggle it back and forth about 6” down, to actually see (or feel) the moisture level. If it’s wet…don’t water. If it’s moist…most likely don’t water…if it’s dry…water.

Too Much Mulch

I wish I had a dime for every tree I found with mulch piled up around the trunk like a little volcano. This is bad for the tree. Why? The mulch keeps the trunk wet which promotes rot or decay. It invites little critters such as mice or insects into a haven of mulch while they munch on the trunk and roots. Too much mulch (anything over 4” high) actually changes the oxygen level to the root (yes, tree roots need oxygen just like we do), and the same for the moisture level. At Hoerr Nursery, we recommend keeping the mulch about 6” away from the trunk and use only 2-3” of thickness covering the ground out to the drip line of the tree (if possible). If you could ask the tree how much mulch to use, it would say: “I would like the whole yard covered, please.” Realistically, do what you can and go out as far as you can for the sake and health of the tree. Even a 4ft ring is better than none.

Tree Wrap

Tree wraps are only temporary. Trees trunks photosynthesize along with the leaves - so it’s important not to leave tree wrap on too long. We suggest just for the winter months when sun scald may occur during our cold, sunny days. The temperature on the shady side of the bark is a different temperature than the area that has been warmed up from the south west side. Once a cloud suddenly covers the warm rays and the freezing temperatures quickly chill the once warm part of the trunk, the sap inside explodes (sort of) and the tree gets what we call “frost crack.” Tree wraps help to stabilize the trunk temperature so for this reason, they work. They can be placed on the trunk in October or November and they should be removed in April. If you don’t remove the tree wrap, during the summer months, insects can damage the bark of the tree and you wouldn’t notice it until the wrap is removed – and then it’s too late…

A Very Important Highway

100% of the trunk is used to deliver water and nutrients to the leaves and food to the roots. It’s like a highway where the outer-most bark moves in the downward direction transporting food made from the leaves to the roots. A very important highway. A little farther under the bark is another highway that carries water with nutrients up the trunk from the roots. Another very important highway. Any injury to the trunk means the upward or downward flow is interrupted (sort of like construction work) and the flow gets diverted around the injured area, if possible. Any injury to the trunk can cause dieback to the top of the tree and possibly death over time. A wide ring of mulch helps prevent lawnmower or weed trimmer injury to the trunk. And, contrary to popular opinion….trees do not “heal” themselves. If it’s injured, it dies. It doesn’t come back or work the same again. Not like us when our cells regenerate. These cells die permanently. Think of the roots and the trunk as the lifeline to the tree. The carelessness with equipment is often overlooked because people think trees regenerate and they don’t.

Flower Beds

Lastly, don’t install a cute little flower bed under the canopy of an existing tree. Every root you cut or every inch of soil you add on top of the roots while planting those flowers will affect some part of the tree that it’s connected to. And it is connected to something. You’ve seen your neighbor do this and the tree looks fine. Unfortunately, trees can take several years to show damage that was done. Sometimes it can take up to 7 years for a tree to die from root damage. You won’t remember planting those flowers 7 years earlier. But you will wonder why the tree is not doing well now. This is the same danger from a patio or walk put anywhere near where the tree roots will be affected. Some trees are tougher than others, some not. Try to refrain from doing a lot of digging under the canopy of an existing tree.

The tree thanks you and so do I. :-)

--Marilyn
 

How To: Pruning Shrub Roses

Now is the perfect time to get your shrub roses in shape for spring! During their first two seasons, allow the plant’s basic framework to develop, pruning only the small spindly shoots. In the third year trim off the top 1/3 of the plant allowing all branches to reach a uniform shape.

The ideal time to prune is late winter before new growth starts in the spring. Trim off weak, diseased or winter-damaged wood that looks brown and dry on the outside. Remove any branch crossing or rubbing against another. Always leave the newest, healthiest cane. Trim shrub roses back to 12” to 18”.

Pruning tools include shears or a lopper. Always wear gloves and a long sleeved shirt when trimming roses. Use pruning shears designed for roses. A 2” blade works best. A long-handled lopper may be used for larger, more mature canes (branches).
 

Fall Tree Care Tips

As trees are preparing for their fall color display, you can help them prepare for a long, chilly winter. Follow these fall tree care tips to keep your tree healthy and strong:

• Mulch! Surround your trees with a layer of organic composted mulch to hold in moisture and reduce temperature extremes. Your trees will thank you for it! Apply mulch in late fall after the ground has frozen.

• Get out the pruning saw and remove out dead branches now to prevent issues in the winter.

• Wrap young or newly planted tree trucks with tree-wrap paper to prevent sun-scalding over winter. Wrap in late fall and remove in early spring.

• Evergreens lose water from their foliage all winter, since they keep their needles year-round. Water them thoroughly before the ground freezes, and don’t forget the mulch!

• Diseased leaves can re-infect a tree even if they have fallen to the ground. Remove leaves from around trees as they fall. Healthy leaves make excellent compost and can be shredded and raked over existing garden beds. Diseased leaves, however, should be disposed of rather than composted or burned.

Enjoy the beauty of fall!

Ella

Time to Plant Spring Bulbs!

If you’re like me, you’re already dreaming about your early spring garden! Now is the perfect time to plant spring flowering bulbs like tulips and daffodils.

When to Plant
Spring flowering bulbs are only available in the fall, and you can plant them until the ground freezes. The roots will develop until the ground temperature drops to below 45 degrees, so planting now will give them a head-start.

What to Plant
Pick firm, unblemished bulbs. Bulbs that feel heavy for their size are the best choice. Keep in mind that bulbs are tasty treats for squirrels, chipmunks, deer and rabbits. If wildlife is an issue in your yard, consider planting only daffodils or hyacinths which are distasteful to animals.

How to Plant
The best method for planting is to dig and loosen the soil of the entire bed to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Mix in some bulb fertilizer with the soil, press the bulbs into the planting bed and cover with soil. Plant with the nose of the bulb upward and the root basal plate downward.

A good rule of thumb is to plant the bulb 2 to 3 times as deep as the diameter of the bulb. Daffodils, tulips and hyacinths are some of the larger bulbs and are typically planted 6 to 8 inches deep while the smaller bulbs like crocus or grape hyacinths are planted 4 inches deep.

Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil around the bulbs and provide the moisture needed to begin rooting.

Where to Plant
Bulbs can be planted neatly in clumps or rows, or in a random manner to give the appearance of naturalizing. Large bulbs are impressive in clumps, and small bulbs look best when they can be planted next to a pathway for close viewing.

*Note: To help you remember where you planted your bulbs, plant a single grape hyacinth bulb with each clump of bulbs. It produces foliage in the fall to mark where your bulbs have been planted!

Remember that for bulbs to perform well year after year they should be planted in full sun to light shade. Bulbs planted in full shade may bloom well the first year but seldom return. The last bit of advice is to allow the foliage to yellow and die in late spring so the bulb stays healthy and maturing.

Happy (fall) planting!

-Ella

Seven Tips to Jumpstart Your Lawn for 2010

October is here and it is not too late to work on your lawn! Fall is an excellent time to renovate the lawn and get a jump-start on a beautiful spring yard.

1. Aeration is one of the best things you can do for your lawn. Aerating in the fall will loosen soil, aid in root development, and control thatch. If you’re interested in aeration, contact the Lawn Maintenance unit at Hoerr Nursery (309) 691-4561.

2. Plant new seed to introduce a better quality grass to your lawn. Fall is a great time to lay down new seed, but be sure you get it planted by October 15th!

3. To start the new grass off right, apply a starter fertilizer like Fertilome's New Lawn Starter. To ensure establishment, you must make sure the seed comes in contact with the soil. Apply “topdressing” (a thin layer of soil) over your new seed to make sure it gets the necessary contact. Great quality grass seed for shady or sunny areas can be found at Hoerr Nursery.

4. Bring a soil sample into Hoerr Nursery for a pH test. If the test indicates a need for lime or sulfur to change the soil's pH, fall is a great time to apply. It will be worked into the soil by rain and the freezing and thawing of winter.

5. Get a jump on weed control by applying a liquid spray like Weed Be Gone or a "weed and feed" granular fertilizer like Fertilome's Weed Out.

6. You can continue mowing your lawn until the grass stops growing. Whenever your daily average minimum temperature (normal low) drops below the freezing point, the grass won't be growing appreciably and you can go ahead and do the final mow. You definitely want to get it done before the winter snows start falling!

7. Apply a Winterizing fertilizer to the yard any time between Halloween and Thanksgiving. It will provide a greener, thicker lawn in fall, quicker green up next spring, and increased root development to handle winter stress.

Love your lawn this fall and it will love you back in 2010!

Ella

Save Your Plants from Heavy Snow

Do your plants look like these arborvitae? The wet snow can have a severe impact on the shape of your plants - here's what you can do to help:
1. VERY carefully wipe off as much snow as possible, then shake the branches carefully. (If the temperature is in single digits, or below zero - wait until it warms up)

2. It may be necessary to tie the plants together to help support each other. Use a soft tie - a soft material or some old pantyhose will do the trick - and tie the inside of the trunks together.

3. During the warmer months, remove the tie and see if they are strong enough to hold up on their own. If not, retie them. Gradually begin loosening the ties and replace as needed so the ties do not choke the trunks.

Introducing - Sara's Garden!

I am embarking on an edible journey. All winter long, I have had thoughts of starting my own vegetable garden. Even though it’s only March and everything still seems wintery, there is plenty I can do to start planning my patch. Over the next couple months I’ll fill you in on the progress of my garden.

Why start my own garden? Well, I talk to a LOT of gardeners that have fond memories of their parents’ or grandparents’ vegetable gardens: of Grandpa scattering lettuce seeds on the last fallen snow, of shelling peas in the afternoon shade. Memories of picking fresh tomatoes and zucchini right off the vine, or making pies, jams, soups and salsas from their fresh picked harvest. Gardening is good for the soul, AND good for the earth.

Not long ago, most families grew vegetable gardens to create nutritious and healthy meals. Now we buy most of our produce from the supermarket. I was shocked to find out that store-bought fruits and veggies may have traveled thousands of miles from farm to plate, even if they were grown locally! By growing my own food I can save money, have fresher, more flavorful foods and be a little kinder to the environment.

So join me as I start my garden! My March “to-do” list includes: selecting seeds, preparing garden beds, and starting a garden journal. What would you like to hear about first? Leave a comment on this post and let me know!

Let's Get Planting!

March was a busy month in my garden! I started a lot of cool weather veggies indoors and I’ve already planted some transplants in my garden beds. I built several 4 x 8 foot raised beds in my backyard that will hold all my herbs and veggies. To give them a great start, I picked up some Better Earth compost from Hoerr Nursery and added it to the soil in my raised beds.

My chicken Reba loves to help with garden chores!

So far I have planted hardy (perennial) herbs: chives, garden sage, lavender, German chamomile and two types of thyme (creeping and English), red, white and yellow onion sets, garlic and shallots, and strawberries. I also sowed several types of lettuce seed.

A lot of people wonder which plants are better to start from seed and which are more easily grown from already started plants. The truth is – it’s up to you! If you have the time and patience to nurture lots of little seeds, go for it! But there are some plants that will probably be easier to grow if you purchase them as already started plants – and some that are happier if you sow them outside and don’t try to move them. I made a little guide below to help explain:

So tell me, what are you planting in your herb and veggie gardens?